Loi Estiatorio, New York City – Restaurant Review

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Tender, baby lamb chops, accompanied by Loi’s own yoghurt for dipping, as well as red bliss potatoes and arugula, appeared and were soft and buttery. Branzino, which is not a fish I tend to order, arrived accompanied by chicory and it completely changed how I saw the fish. If this is what Branzino really tastes like, I’m a fan.

Before dessert, a mysterious striped bottle with the word “Blink” on it arrived. Blink is a brut sparkling wine made from Zibibbo or Muscat of Alexandria grapes from the volcanic terroir of Lemnos island. Bubbly, with a bright color, it had some soft aromas I couldn’t really place as well as a wonderful acidity and minerality, ending with a caramel finish.

Finally there was dessert.  My new favorite desserts, ekmek kadaiífi, which I had sampled a few days earlier, and sokolatopita, described on the menu as “Maria’s special rich chocolate flourless cake.”  Could I have a new favorite dessert so soon?  No, they would have to share the title for now.

BOTTOM LINE

While I was truly sad to see Seasonal, my favorite Austrian restaurant in the city, close, Loi Estiatorio is a worthy successor. I can cook Austrian dishes at home (sorry, Arno) but what Chef Loi and her team have here is special and her unbridled exuberance about food is contagious.

THE DETAILS

Loi Estiatorio
132 West 58th Street
New York, N.Y. 10019
Tel. +1 212 713-0015
www.loiestiatorio.com

(Photos: Accura Media Group)

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