The letter “B” is not found in “Munich” but it might as well be.  The letter B is everywhere in the city, whether it’s on the street (BMW), in a restaurant (Bier), or in a political discussion (Bayern, or Bavaria).  It’s probably the most important letter in the city as a result.

Munich is one of four cities where I have lived and, as my university town, holds a special place in my heart.  It is such a vibrant, diverse city and I know it so well that I have found it almost impossible to write about it, so I am doing it in sections.

Without a doubt, Munich (München) is a study in contrasts. It is the modern and hip capital of staunchly conservative Bavaria, a city where the modern constantly bumps into the old, and a high-tech center with an entrepreneurial spirit where world-class established firms such as BMW and Siemens are also headquartered.

The city is also a polarizing force, whether it’s Bayern München, the premier Fußball (soccer) team, the region’s Catholicism and strong Bavarian identity (the state of Bavaria is formally known as Freistaat Bayern, or the Free State of Bavaria), or just the city’s affluence.

For many years, Munich has lived in Berlin’s shadow. The capital city, with its anarchic attitude and cutting-edge club scene, is hip. Munich, on the other hand, is stodgy and decidedly unhip, at least according to the stereotype.

Three years ago, the International Herald Tribune and Monocle magazine named Munich the best place to live in the world and they were apparently on to something.

Munich is a quintessentially livable city.  It’s clean, has efficient and inexpensive public transportation, a very low crime rate, and benefits from an excellent location near mountains and lakes.

The Bavarian capital is a major destination for beer lovers, history buffs, car lovers, and music fans alike.  It boasts restaurants, concert halls, parks, dance clubs, science and art museums and, yes, beer gardens.

Its Baroque and Rococo architecture and stunning parks captivate visitors of all ages and it is home to some of Europe’s finest museums.

MUSEUMS FROM A TO Z

Museums run the gamut here from art to automobiles to science and technology to zoology.

The BMW Museum is one of the most popular attractions in Munich, alongside the Alte Pinakothek, the Deutsches Museum, and the BMW Welt.  The museum opened shortly before the 1972 Summer Olympics and was designed by Prof. Karl Schwanzer, an Austrian architect who also designed BMW’s neighboring four-cylinder headquarters building.  It was renovated as part of the development of the BMW Welt and reopened in 2008 with significantly increased exhibit space.

The museum presents almost a century of BMW’s history and heritage in seven thematic blocks covering design, company history, technology, motor sport, motorcycles, the BMW brand, and BMW’s cars.

In the original section of the museum, visitors ascend a spiral walkway to see the individual exhibits.  An escalator at the top brings them back to the ground floor.

The BMW Welt is BMW’s “experience and delivery center” which opened in October 2007.  In addition to its primary mission, the handover of new BMWs to customers at the factory, it presents a variety of exhibits on BMW technology and BMW automobiles.

Over five million people have visited the BMW Welt since its opening, making it the most frequently visited attraction in Munich (admission is free).  Designed by Prof. Wolf Prix, a principal at the Viennese design firm Coop Himmelb(l)au and a student of Prof. Karl Schwanzer, the building’s architecture, including the striking Doppelkegel (double cone) and the flying cloud roof, represents a new order in design yet the BMW Welt is harmoniously integrated into the context of the surrounding BMW buildings and Olympic Park architecture.

The BMW Welt is connected to the BMW Museum by a bridge and the BMW plant tours start in the Welt as well.

The BMW Welt staff can deliver up to 250 cars per day to customers who typically pay several hundred euro for the privilege. (Editor’s note: the author was the first customer to take delivery of a BMW in the BMW Welt on the first day of deliveries, 23 October 2007).  Those taking delivery typically plan an entire day for such an undertaking, receiving an extensive multimedia orientation for their new vehicles prior to a dramatic delivery on the premiere level of the Welt, and then taking a factory tour.  The private and exclusive Premium Lounge is reserved solely for these customers and their guests.

The Welt features several restaurants and cafés run by Do & Co, an Austrian restaurant and catering firm.  It also has shops and a multimedia auditorium for concerts and events.

Click here to continue to Page 2 for more museums.

In my particular case, the storm, which set new records in many areas, took the 12-hour trip to London and turned it into a 48-hour marathon journey.

After departing a mere hour late Saturday night (which wasn’t bad with the impending storm looming), I settled in to my seat, 1D, on American Airlines flight 100, a very comfortable Flagship Suite. We had to wait for de-icing and, as luck would have it, once that was completed, visibility dropped to almost nothing and the entire airport was shut down. As we began our slow return to the gate (snowplows were clearing a path for us), I gathered some necessities together for what I presumed could be a long and uncomfortable stay at the airport as I had no intention of driving home in the blizzard.

I left the aircraft with my Flagship Suite pillow and blanket, two liters of water, and a warm meal from the galley and headed to the lounge. I settled in to a relatively quiet corner and started checking weather reports and flight information on my laptop.

Essentially, everything was shut down and it was unlikely that any flights would resume until mid-morning at the earliest. I decided to remain airside (one of the many benefits of not checking any bags) as I guessed (correctly, as it turned out) that thousands of passengers would be at the check-in counters and baggage claim and that even going through security for the second time could take many hours, once the airport officially reopened.

With few passengers or airport staff present, the lounge and gate areas were an oasis of calm. I stayed up for a few hours talking to other passengers in the lounge but eventually went to sleep. At six o’clock in the morning, when I awoke and took a brief stroll, there was nary a passenger to be seen and one lone security officer.

No flights for London would leave until 18:00 at the earliest and, by 11:00, the first flight was already showing a two-hour delay. By then, the storm had subsided, driving conditions had improved, and most passengers scheduled for the next days’ flights appeared to be showing up, putting me on somewhat shaky ground given my status as a standby passenger at that point.

The first two flights went out full – without me on board I should add. But, as one is wont to say, the third time’s the charm and American found a comfortable business class seat for me on flight 132. We left the gate almost three hours later than originally scheduled but this time we did not turn back. Seven hours later, I was disembarking at London Heathrow’s Terminal 3. I quickly cleared immigration and walked to Terminal 2 for my Lufthansa flight to Munich.

The original flight, of course, had been for the prior day at 09:35. I was only 27 hours late for that one. Once again, I was a standby passenger but my patience was rewarded as I arrived at the gate and was handed a boarding card for seat 1A for Lufthansa 4757, scheduled to depart at 15:25.

Although the snow was relatively light in London (especially compared to New York), there were many delays and the cancellation of Eurostar train service hadn’t helped matters. We finally pushed back at 18:00 and arrived at the gate at Flughafen München Franz Josef Strauß.

My friend and driver, Rolf Raffelsieper, who operates a VIP Pickup Service for BMW European Delivery customers, was outside the baggage claim area waiting for me. My delays probably disrupted his schedule somewhat as well but he was nonetheless happy to see me. 45 minutes later, thanks to Rolf’s diesel-powered 3er Series Touring (wagon), we pulled up to the entrance of the Charles Hotel. My 48-hour journey had come to an end.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

Brugge, Belgium

The beginning of article comes to you from Brugge, Belgium, at least that’s where I think I am.

On October 15, I found myself on Lufthansa Flight 411 to Munich, arriving in time for the October 17 opening of the new BMW Welt (see BMW’s Brave New World), BMW’s new €500 million “experience and delivery center.”  Just a year ago, in these pages, I wrote about the European Delivery programs that automakers offer their U.S. customers, allowing them to pick up and drive an automobile in its native habitat.  As a BMW European Delivery habitué, I had been invited by BMW to be the first customer to collect a car when deliveries start a week after opening.

The BMW Welt's first customer delivery goes to the author

European Delivery is a process I had been through many times before. To some extent, it had become almost routine.  Fly to Munich, get picked up by Rolf Raffelsieper (a retired BMW employee who runs a VIP pick-up service for European Delivery customers) and driven to the European Delivery Center in Freimann, pick up the car, go to the hotel, drive somewhere.  This trip, with delivery at the BMW Welt, would be different.

Of course, like most of my trips, this one mixed business and pleasure.  It was just much, much longer.  Following the BMW Welt opening, I had two days of business meetings in Munich.  For the weekend, however, I went to Vienna (BMW had loaned me a 535d) to see friends.  A business meeting scheduled for Monday morning was cancelled, giving me a bit of time to go shopping before leaving Vienna.

By 4 p.m. on Monday, I was back in Munich and checking my e-mail, including one from BMW.  I was expected to be at the BMW Welt at 07.30 “at the latest.”

Reception area in the BMW Welt's Premium Lounge, reserved for those collecting new BMWs only

On Tuesday, October 23rd, in the early morning hours, I found myself once again being driven by Rolf to pick up a car, but for the first time, we were heading to the BMW Welt. Unlike the sunny opening day the prior week, it was drizzling. As we approached, I found the Welt’s cloudscape-like appearance even more captivating in the mist.

Only a few BMW Welt employees were on hand when I arrived.  When I told the receptionist that I was there to collect a new car, she informed me that I was the first customer to arrive.

The Premiere Delivery Area at the BMW Welt

Another Welt employee escorted me to the elevator that zipped us to the Premium Lounge, an area reserved for customers taking delivery.  At the lounge’s reception desk, I was introduced to Thomas Huber, who would complete the formalities with me.  As we finished the paperwork, Michael Rösner, director of customer service at the Welt, stopped by to welcome me and see how things were proceeding.  Other customers were also arriving by then.

Inside the Premium Lounge, waiters and waitresses were putting out croissants, Danish pastry, juices, and preparing Cappuccino for guests.  I was ready to settle in but was told to be at station B1 by 8.10 to begin the delivery experience.  Before I could get to the station, I was greeted by Rudolf Wiedermann, the Welt’s director, as well as Keri-Lynne Shaw, Director of European Delivery at BMW NA and Simone Zaccardi, European Delivery manager at BMW NA.

THE EXPERIENCE

With the BMW Welt, BMW has without question raised the bar in delivering new cars.  As instructed, I waited by the airport-like information kiosk and Stephanie Duderstadt, my delivery specialist, came to introduce herself and start the process.

In the simulator cabin, before delivery

BMW uses specially developed and highly advanced multi-media technology to provide each new car owner with an individualized explanation and overview of the vehicle.  This is done in two parts.  The first, an introduction to the model and BMW design, is done at a multimedia station, a table-sized touchscreen display.  Frau Duderstadt covered features in the 5er Series, as well as design, performance, security, service, and driving dynamics.

I was then ushered into one of several simulator cabins, each outfitted with a steering wheel, brake, and gas pedal.  The armrest even had a pop-out iDrive controller.  Here I was asked to perform various accident avoidance maneuvers, such as braking with and without ABS (this felt very realistic by the way and I only crashed a few times), given an opportunity to drive with and without Adaptive Headlights to see how the light steers in the car’s direction, and given further details about the car.

Having concluded this glimpse into the future of automotive delivery, I was escorted by lift to the top floor of the Welt so I could descend down what the staff calls the “Hollywood” staircase to the Premiere delivery area.  At that point, my 550i was the only car there, sitting on a turntable.  As we walked down, Frau Duderstadt pressed a button in her PDA-like device (that she always carried) which set the turntable (there are 30 of these) in motion, with a spotlight focused on the shining car.  We continued down the three flights of stairs, stopping to admire the view of the Welt’s interior as well as of the BMW Vierzylinder headquarters and BMW Museum buildings through the Welt’s glass walls.

New cars are stored deep in the cellar and are retrieved by machine.

Frau Duderstadt then turned over the keys (each owner also receives a brushed stainless keychain in the shape of the Welt with the owner’s initials) and reviewed individual details about my car and its options, a 2008 550i in Carbonschwarz (carbon black) metallic, an exclusive color only available on the 550i with sport package, which includes an aerodynamic package, sport suspension, Active Roll Stabilization, 19” Style 172M double-spoke wheels, and 20-way multi-contour (“Comfort”) seats.  Other options include Comfort Access, Heads-up Display, Lane Departure Warning, navigation, HD radio, Logic7 sound system, rear and side shades. An anthracite headliner and black leather interior with dark poplar wood complete the look.

The car looked incredible.  At this point I could have driven off but first I wanted to spend more time in the Welt.  Later, I drove it along the path inside the Premiere area and had an opportunity to see the Welt from the driver’s seat, a unique perspective and a good way to begin to enjoy the Freude am Fahren that the Welt imbues.

The port of Bremerhaven.

Over the next seven days, I covered over 2500 kilometers, visiting eight cities (Munich, Hamburg, Flensburg, Kollund, Brugge, Düsseldorf, Bremen, and Bremerhaven) in four countries (Belgium, Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands).

The last day was drop-off day, the final step in every European Delivery trip.  You hand over your brand new BMW to E.H. Harms, BMW’s shipping agent that will book its passage across the Atlantic.  This time I went to Bremerhaven, the actual port, instead of an inland drop-off location.  I was able to see new BMWs being loaded into a ship and see the vast warehouses of BMWs, some being imported, most slated for export.  A short while later, I was on a plane, first heading to Frankfurt and then continuing to New York.  The Carbonschwarz metallic 550i would begin its own voyage a few days hence.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

The ultimate souvenir: our 3er Series parked in front of the Hilton Budapest WestEnd

In recent years, savvy business travelers have joined the thousands of Americans who each year take a trip to Munich, Germany with one goal in mind.  Unlike other tourists, they are not there for the beer, the Schnitzel, the museums, and art galleries.  The real reason for the trip: to pick up a new BMW at BMW’s factory delivery center.

Some business travelers are en route to or from a meeting; others simply hop over to Munich for the day to garner the savings. Still others, including myself, integrate the European Delivery experience into a business trip cum holiday.

For years, BMW has offered its customers the option of picking up their cars at the factory.  After delivery, and being driven on the Autobahnen, Bundesstraßen, Landstraßen, and Autostrade of Europe, the car is shipped by the manufacturer back to the United States.  The trip has almost become a ritual for some; indeed a third of BMW’s customers have picked up a car at the factory in previous years. I am a member of that group, having joined the club in January 1982.

2363 BMWs were sold through BMW’s European Delivery program in 2005; BMW expects the number for 2006 to be even higher. European Delivery packages can include significant discounts (published discounts are seven percent on most models; individual dealers will frequently offer even better pricing), discounted or free airfare, meals, and the thrill of a factory tour that is the birthplace of the car being picked up.

For many, the opportunity to drive a BMW in its native habitat, the German Autobahn, is a major draw.  And for the business traveler who might be driving between cities for meetings, there is no need for a rental car.

EARLY DAYS

The European Delivery program has its roots in the 1950s when members of the U.S. armed forces returning from Europe brought with them a taste for smaller, sportier European cars. Many shipped their own cars to the States.

At the time, other than the occasional Volkswagen Käfer (Beetle), a non-U.S. manufactured vehicle was an unusual sight in the United States.  The eventual appearance of foreign cars was mostly due to Max Hoffman, the Austrian emigrant automotive entrepreneur who, starting in 1948, single-handedly created the imported car business in the United States and during his career marketed Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Jaguar, and BMW vehicles.

The author's 1982 BMW 320iS near his residence in Munich at the Studentenstadt Freimann

In the mid 1960s, with the advent of the jet age, Hoffman saw an opportunity to boost both sales and mindshare for BMW by offering prospective buyers the opportunity to take their first European vacation and drive around Europe in their own car (naturally, a BMW), which would follow them back to the U.S., giving the traveler a unique experience, saving money on the car purchase, and eliminating rental charges.

Hoffman was not alone. By the end of the decade, Mercedes, Saab, Volvo, Porsche, and Volkswagen all offered factory delivery for tourists.

ARRANGING YOUR EUROPEAN DELIVERY

European Delivery sales are arranged through dealers in the United States.  Many dealerships have one salesperson as a designated specialist.  Buyers should expect more paperwork (after all, buying a car usually doesn’t involve one’s passport) and need to be aware that the wait time for redelivery can be six to eight weeks.

Each BMW comes with premium auto insurance with no deductible for 14 days.  It can be extended at extra cost.  Each car is custom built; orders should be placed at least two months prior to the desired delivery date but depending on scheduling, a month in advance might work in some cases.  Buyers need to be aware of German (and other national) holidays when making travel plans; the delivery center is closed on German holidays and drop-off centers (over a dozen throughout Europe) are also likely to be closed on local holidays.

THE PROCESS

In the past ten months, I ordered two BMWs for factory delivery (one for me, one for my partner).  Placing the orders was easy.  The first car was a 2006 330xi in Sparkling Graphite, delivered in November 2005; the second was a 2006 325i in Japanrot (“Electric Red” in the U.S.) picked up in August 2006.

THE TRIPS

In November 2005, I combined a BMW factory delivery with client meetings in Munich and Vienna.  In 5 days, I covered 2426 km and four countries (Austria, Germany, Hungary, and Italy). I crossed international borders 22 times.   I only had meetings on the first and final days of my trip so I was able to plan each day’s drive the night before, choosing my destination primarily based on the promise of good weather.

Alongside the Donau (Danube) River in the Wachau Valley, Niederösterreich (Lower Austria)

After picking up my 330xi in Munich last November, my partner Dan Lafler decided he would like a new Japanrot (“Electric Red” in the U.S.) 3er .  I had a client meeting in Vienna planned so we planned a trip that would have us visiting three major cities on the Danube: Budapest, where the river is called the Duna; Bratislava (Preßburg), where it is called the Dunaj; and Vienna, where it is the Donau.  The Danube, the longest river in continental Europe, is a crucial link between the east and the west.  It has served as a frontier, separating warring parties, and as a blue artery of life, carrying food and people.

We arrived on 31. July around noon and were met by Rolf Raffelsieper (see resources).  Rolf brought us to our hotel, the Holiday Inn on the Leopoldstraße, but wasn’t inclined to let us relax from the trip; instead, we immediately headed out to the Biergarten at Kloster Andechs, one of the best breweries in Bavaria.

The next morning we were off to the factory delivery center and soon were on the way to Budapest via Austria.

Before crossing the border into Austria, we stopped at a Raststation and purchased a Mautvignette (toll sticker) valid for 10 days at a cost of €7,60. This is required on the Autobahn in Austria  (another is needed for Hungary, where they call it a Matrica).

Driving on the autópálya (highway or Autobahn) in Hungary

We entered Hungary at the border crossing Nickelsdorf/Hegyeshalom.  Hungary, although now part of the European Union, does not yet have a Schengen border (countries that have signed the Schengen agreement have removed border checks between participating countries), so passports are checked and stamped.

After a 700 kilometers drive, we arrived at the Hilton West End in Budapest.

For the next two and a half days, the 3er sat and we walked. We walked across the Lanchid(Chain Bridge) to Castle Hill, taking the cog railway up, and explored the hills of Buda including the spectacular views from Gellérthegy (Gellert Hill).

Budapest is one of the most beautiful cities on the Danube, a place that was intellectually and culturally drawn by the river toward Vienna and the West.   The Duna (Danube) divides the city into its two component parts, Buda and Pest, flowing beneath the famous bridges that link the two halves.  The river itself is the heart of the city, passing before the neo-Gothic Parliament building and the great castle of the Hungarian kings.

The view from Bratislava Castle

Finally, it was time to leave Budapest and get back in the BMW.  After 190 rainy kilometers and two hours of driving, we arrived in central Bratislava, parking in the Old City.  As we walked to Bratislava Castle, overlooking the Dunaj, it drizzled on and off. However, it was worth the walk since the views of the city were magnificent.

Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, is situated near the borders of Austria, Hungary, and the Czech Republic.  Bratislava was closely linked with Vienna, only 60 kilometers away, and was an important center of economic, political, and cultural life similar to other European capitals.

Soon it was time to continue to Vienna, our last Danubian city.  Vienna, an opulent city with a stubborn majesty as the capital of a long-gone empire, is a city of palaces, museums, concert halls, opera houses, and parks, the capital of a country that has what may very well be the largest per capita cultural budget in the world.  Of course, Johann Strauß II composed what has become the unofficial Austrian anthem, An der schönen blauen Donau, reflecting the Blue Danube’s importance to Vienna.

The next day, despite the rain, we still made it to the top of Stephansdom for incredible views of the city, walked through the Stadtpark, where the presence of Strauß and Beethoven is felt everywhere and shopped appropriately.  The afternoon and evening were reserved for meetings.  After all, this was business travel.

A Beisl, or small restaurant, at the Old Danube (Alte Donau)

The next day, the sun came out as we drove to Schloß Schönbrunn, the Habsburg summer palace.  After touring the castle and grounds, we drove 84 kilometers to Dürnstein (the town where Richard Löwenherz (Lionhearted) was held captive; it was too rainy to hike up to the ruins where he had been imprisoned so we “settled” for dining a local restaurant (which featured the local wines from the Wachau region, such as Grüner Veltliner).

The final full day in Vienna included a trip to the Alte Donau (Old Danube), a beach/resort area.  The following morning, we drove to the offices of Auto-Service Wien, the local agent for E.H. Harms, BMW’s shipper, where we turned in the car with 1416 kilometers on the clock.

A quick taxi ride to the airport and we were on our way back to New York. The car wouldn’t be far behind.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

10 STEPS TO EUROPEAN DELIVERY

1.) Ca. three months before the desired date, pick out the color and options, and negotiate the price.

2.) Sign the purchase order, which your dealer then submits to the European Delivery department with your desired delivery date.

3.) Your car is manufactured ca. 30 days prior to delivery.

4.) You pay for the car, usually 14 days before scheduled pick up day; if you are leasing, your lease starts on this day.

5.) You pick up the car in Munich.

6.) You drop the car off in Europe (within 30 days for BMWFS lease, 90 days for BMWFS finance, 6 months otherwise; insurance for 14 days is included).

7.) Car is transported to port and then put on board ship.

8.) Your car reaches USA (from drop-off, this takes up to 3-4 weeks for the East Coast, 5-6 weeks for the West Coast)

9.) Vehicle clears customs, is processed at the VDC and shipped to the dealer. (Depending on a variety of factors, including how backed up U.S. Customs is, this can take 1-2 weeks.)

10.) Redelivery.

ADVICE

Some suggestions to make the European Delivery experience more fun and less stressful for American visitors:

• Order Satellite Navigation and get the DVD for Europe.  Arriving hours late for a business meeting is bad for business. Getting lost on the byways can spoil your fun.
• Learn a few phrases in German and the language(s) of any countries you will be visiting.  “Danke” (thank you), “bitte” (please and you’re welcome), and “Guten Morgen” (good morning) will go a long way.
• Plan for local weather.  Don’t order a car with summer (performance) tires for a mid-December delivery.
• Don’t overplan.  Many first-time visitors to Europe try to see everything.  Pick a few destinations and get to know them well.
• Verify the location and hours for your intended drop-off location when you are at the Delivery Center.

EUROPEAN DELIVERY RESOURCES

BMW NA Web Site

BMW presents an overview of European Delivery, including pricing, at http://www.bmwusa.com/bmwexperience/europeandelivery/

European Delivery forum at Bimmerfest.

Over 10% of BMW’s European Delivery customers utilize this online forum, asking questions and making travel plans, www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=25

Rolf Raffelsieper – BMW Pick-up Service

Herr Raffelsieper started working at BMW in 1967.  For a very reasonable fee, he will pick you up at Flughafen München Franz Josef Strauß and take you directly to the BMW European Delivery Center or to your hotel.  He can also arrange various tours, including visits to BMW facilities of interest.  E-mail Rolf at rolf.raffelsieper@web.de

Ricki Shamen, DiFeo BMW

I have worked with Ricki on multiple European Deliveries (and several U.S. deliveries) over the past 16 years. rshamen@unitedauto.com

European Delivery 2006 Calendar

As a fun project, I created this calendar with photographs from Germany and Austria along with all U.S., German, and Austrian holidays.  Available at http://www.lulu.com/content/198766.

EUROPEAN DELIVERY PROGRAMS

In 5 days, I covered 2426 km and four countries (Austria, Germany, Hungary, and Italy). I crossed international borders 22 times.   I planned each day’s drive the night before, choosing my destination primarily based on the promise of good weather.

11. November – 460 km, Germany, Austria, and Italy

Friends Rich and Jill joined me for breakfast and soon enough, we were on the Autobahn in two 2006 3er Series BMWs.  Our itinerary: drive across the Brennerpaß into Italy and then head back north to Berchtesgaden.  I wonder if anyone noticed the consecutively numbered license plates on the two automobiles.

Destination: Berchtesgaden

We headed south in tandem on the A8, continuing on the A93 and then the A12 (Inntal-Autobahn) as it led to the Brenner-Autobahn (A13) and became the Autostrada del Brennero (A22)

Heading south was a good idea as it offered the best weather in the region. It turned out to be a beautiful, sunny day, with temperatures reaching 13°C.

Once we got to Sferzing (214 km later), it was time to change direction and head towards Berchtesgaden.  This involved retracing our steps until we reached the motorway intersection at Inntal, at which point we headed east on the A8 towards Salzburg.

I let the navigation system guide me the final kilometers to Berchtesgaden and the InterContinental Resort.  Given the fog, the late hour, and the fact that we were climbing to an altitude of 1000 m, I was able to enjoy the ride knowing that a little voice would tell me where to go.

Tired but exhilarated, I checked into the InterContinental. Even though it was dark, I could sense how incredible the view from my window would be.  I couldn’t wait until morning to actually see it.

View from the author's room at the InterContinental, Berchtesgaden

The view was incredible.  The InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden, built on the site of Field Marshal Hermann Göring’s house near the Berghof, is promoted as being “between heaven and earth,” set on a small plateau 1000 m high overlooking the Nationalpark Berchtesgaden in Berchtesgadener Land, Bayern (Bavaria) adjacent to Salzburg, Austria.  Innately beautiful, the Nationalpark contains five main mountain ranges; one third of the park is rocky and glaciated, a further third is covered in mixed woodlands of spruce, beech, fir, and other conifers; alpine pastures comprise the remainder.

12. November – 550 km, Salzburg and Niederösterreich

Today was a ca. 550 km roundtrip to Dürnstein.  Leaving the InterContinental, I took the windy Alpenstraße (B160) to the Tauern-Autobahn (A10), staying on that a brief 7 km or so until I get on the West-Autobahn (A1).   I stopped briefly along the banks of the Mondsee, one of the most beautiful lakes in the Salzkammergut.  I continued driving west to Melk, where I turned on to the Donau-Bundesstraße (B3), running along the Donau (Danube).

A view of the Danube in the Wachau valley

Dürnstein is where Richard Löwenherz (Richard the Lionhearted) was held captive after having been captured in Erdberg by the Mayor of Vienna in 1192. He was held in a huge fortress on a hill high above the village.  His loyal troubadour, Blondel de Neale, found him, so the story goes, by wandering around Europe singing Richard´s favorite ballads outside every castle, until a response came.

I stopped at the Gasthof Goldener Strauss for a glass of Grüner Veltliner (a local specialty), Frittatensuppe, Forelle (Trout), and for dessert, Powideltascherl before returning to Berchtesgaden.

13. November – 370 km, Bayern, Salzburg, Steiermark, Kärnten, Osttirol

Today was a Landstraße/Bundesstraße day. I started on the B305 leaving Berchtesgaden and, after 10 km, crossing the border into Austria, where I continued on Landstraßen and then the B159 for several kilometers.  At Hallein, I entered the Tauern-Autobahn (A10), going through the Tauernautobahn Tunnel.  After 128 km, at Lendorf I switched to the B100 to get to Lienz.  I then headed to Kitzbühel and back to Berchtesgaden taking the Felber Tauern Straße and Tunnel, and for the drive into Berchtesgaden, the Alpenstraße.

I drove through many different climates (coldest: 0,5°C – warmest 12°C in Berchtesgaden), went from light frost and a little snow on the ground to sunshine, and went up and down several times to 1200 or 1300 m.

14. November – 747 km, Germany, Austria, Hungary

For this trip, I planned a mix of Autobahnen and Bundesstraßen, allowing me to take the Tauern-Autobahn for ca. 60 km, and continue with Bundesstraßen (the B99 and the B320) for 75 km towards Liezen in Steiermark.  From Liezen I took the Pyhrn-Autobahn (A9) towards Leoben (Kärnten) for ca. 80 km.  From there I continued on the Semmering-Schnellstraße (S6) through Steiermark and Niederösterreich. The S6 meets the Süd-Autobahn (A2) at the Anschlußstelle Knoten Seebenstein where I continued on the A2 towards Wien (Vienna).  Near Wiener Neustadt I switched to the S4 (Mattersburger-Schnellstraße).  From there, I took the S31 to the Südost-Autobahn and in 6 km I was crossing the border into Hungary.

Neon-lighted highway rest area

I did get a chance to practice my Hungarian (which is somewhat limited) and enjoyed some nice palacsintá (with chestnut filling) and Hungarian coffee.  With some quick shopping (stocking up on paprikás and Marzipan), I still had a 380 km trip back to Berchtesgaden so I headed towards Wien and took the West-Autobahn (A1) for a fast drive back.

15. November – Berchtesgaden to Garching bei München – 173 km

The weather this morning was the best since I arrived. Sunny, 12°C (of course that was at 1000 m.  When I got down to 500m, it was .5 ° C).  I didn’t want to leave the InterContinental (in addition to the view, I was becoming especially attached to the electronically-controlled, gas Kamin (fireplace) in the room), but it’s a good thing I did.  Two days later, Germany was hit with heavy winter storms and, although my car has xDrive, it also is equipped with high-performance summer tires.

My final drive for this trip would take me to the offices of E.H. Harms in Garching (bei München).  A ritual I’ve followed many times before. Condition report; power of attorney form, remove front license plate (I had already removed the first aid kit and warning triangle and shipped these with other sundry items from the hotel), and hand over one key.

Rolf Raffelsieper (see resources), who worked at BMW since 1967 before retiring, was happy to pick me up at E.H. Harms and drive me to the airport in a new 745d.

Before I knew it, I was on board Lufthansa flight 410 to New York.  I logged into FlyNet, for on board Internet access.  The adventure was over, but I had a lot of e-mails and pictures to send from 11,000 m aloft.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

Since the 1960s, several thousand Americans each year have taken a trip to Munich, Germany with one goal in mind.  Unlike the other American tourists, they are not there for the beer, the Schnitzel, the museums and art galleries, and the Gemütlichkeit alone.  The real reason for the trip: to pick up a new BMW at BMW’s factory delivery center.

The author's new BMW 330xi at the InterContinental Hotel and Resort in Berchtesgaden

For years, BMW has been among a handful of European automakers that offer Americans the option of picking up their cars at the factory.  The Americans take delivery, drive on the Autobahnen, Bundesstraßen, Landstraßen, and Autostrade of Europe for several weeks, and have the cars shipped back to the United States.  The trip has become almost an annual ritual for some; indeed a third of the customers have picked up a car at the factory in previous years. I am a member of that group, having joined the club in January 1982

2363 BMWs were sold through BMW’s European Delivery program in 2005; in 2004, the number was 1999. Customers are drawn by packages that can include significant discounts (published discounts are seven percent on most models; individual dealers will frequently offer even better pricing), discounted or free airfare, meals, and the thrill of a factory tour that is the birthplace of the car being picked up.

Just as legend tells us that the Loreley bewitched the hearts of sailors on the Rhine, the Autobahn bewitches the hearts of American drivers.  The opportunity to drive a BMW in its native habitat, the German Autobahn, is a major draw.

The European Delivery program has its roots in the 1950s when members of the U.S. armed forces returning from Europe brought with them a taste for smaller, sportier European cars. Many shipped their own cars to the States with the help of E.H. Harms Auto Forwarding & Shipping.   Harms was founded by Egon H. Harms, a German soldier who had been captured by the Americans at the Battle of the Bulge.  After he was released, he started moving military vehicles back to different ports; as more U.S. bases were built in Europe, he began shipping soldiers’ cars stateside as well.

At the time, other than the occasional Volkswagen Käfer (Beetle), a non-U.S. manufactured vehicle was an unusual sight in the United States.  Their appearance was mostly due to U.S. soldiers and to Max Hoffman, the Austrian emigrant automotive entrepreneur who, starting in 1948, single-handedly created the imported car business in the United States and during his career marketed Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Jaguar, and BMW vehicles.

Most of his energy was focused on BMW. Hoffman started importing BMWs in the 1950s, and he was the exclusive importer from 1960 until March 1975, when BMW of North America was formed, reportedly buying Hoffman out for $16 million.  Hoffman remained co-chairman and a member of the design committee (he was instrumental in the creation of the BMW 507).

In the mid 1960s, with the advent of the jet age, Hoffman saw an opportunity to boost both sales and mindshare for BMW by offering prospective buyers the opportunity to take their first European vacation and drive around Europe in their own car (naturally, a BMW), which would follow them back to the U.S., giving the traveler a unique experience, saving money on the car purchase, and eliminating rental charges.

Hoffman was not alone. By the end of the decade, Mercedes, Saab, Volvo, Porsche, and Volkswagen all offered factory delivery for tourists.

European Delivery sales are arranged through BMW dealers in the United States.  Many dealerships have one salesperson as a designated specialist.  With minor exceptions, the cars do not come out of the dealer’s allocation so there is no floor cost to the dealer; essentially, it’s like selling an extra car.  Buyers should expect more paperwork (after all, buying a car usually doesn’t involve one’s passport) and buyers need to be aware that the wait time for redelivery can be six weeks to eight weeks.

Buyers receive premium auto insurance with no deductible for 14 days.  It can be extended at extra cost.  Each car is custom built, and needs to be ordered at least three months prior to the desired delivery date.  Buyers need to be aware of German (and other national) holidays when making travel plans; the delivery center is closed on German holidays and drop-off centers (over a dozen throughout Europe) are likely to be closed on local holidays.

European Delivery also has a “season” which runs from mid-March to mid-November.  Deliveries in the off season, after mid-November, are not recommended if your car comes with summer or performance tires.  German law requires the use of winter tires (tires must be designated with M+S, and all season tires do qualify).

THE PROCESS

Despite multiple prior European Deliveries, this is the first time I was to go through the entire process, starting with ordering a car from scratch.  For previous deliveries, I had selected a car from the pool of cars BMW maintains for those customers who decide to pickup their car at the factory on short notice.  Fortunately, they always seemed to have the exact car I wanted.

Placing the order with Ricki Shamen at DiFeo BMW

But this time was different: I went to meet with Ricki Shamen at DiFeo BMW on 27 August to place my order.  I had already reviewed all of the colors and options available, so placing the actual order was easy.  Ricki had obtained a production number for me rather quickly, and soon we were tracking my car through the manufacturing process, from 112 (effectively, “about to be built”) to 155 (production completed) to 170 (“at Delivery Center in Freimann for pre-delivery inspection”).  The car I ordered was a 2006 330xi, in Sparkling Graphite with a black leather interior.  Options included the Premium Package (which includes BMW Assist with Bluetooth Wireless Technology), Parking Distance Control, the Sport Package, Styling 162 wheels, iDrive and satellite navigation, Comfort Access, the Cold Weather Package, and power rear sunshades with manual side window shades – pretty much everything but Active Cruise Control, automatic transmission, and Active Steering.

We set a date for the delivery: 10. November.  That meant my car would be manufactured in mid October, ca. one month prior.  And it was, on 11. October.

As the date drew closer, I finalized an itinerary.  I would fly directly to Munich on the ninth and stay the first night in Munich.  After that, I would stay four nights at the InterContinental Resort in Berchtesgaden and make day trips from there.  I would drop off my car in Garching bei München on the 15th, and fly back to New York later that day.

The ninth of November arrived more quickly than I had anticipated.  I had set my alarm for three hours earlier than usual to get a jump on Central European Time (this works every time, ensuring I will be quite sleepy by the time we are aloft).  By coincidence, two acquaintances from the BMW Car Club of American, Rich and Jill Zimmer were to be on my flight as they were picking up an Electric Red E90 325i.

By the time I arrived at JFK, that evening, I was ready to settle in for a long, comfortable flight.  Rich and Jill were waiting for me in the Lufthansa Senator Lounge.  Due to inclement weather, our departure time was repeatedly delayed.  This gave us lots of time to enjoy sandwiches, Brezeln, and Spaten Oktoberfest Bier vom Faß.

After a comfortable flight (Lufthansa’s seats do fold into completely flat beds that are quite comfortable) and multiple delays due to weather conditions on both sides of the Atlantic, we finally arrived at Flughafen München Franz Josef Strauß at 11:45.

Rich and Jill joined me for a quick ride to the Delivery Center.  Upon arrival we headed upstairs to the café, where Thomas Roller, manager of the BMW Delivery Center, was waiting to meet with me.  Rich and Jill completed their paperwork and were brought to their new Electric Red 325i.

The BMW Welt under construction in November 2005

My next meeting was at BMW Welt  with Helmut Pöschl and his colleagues who are planning BMW Welt (more on BMW Welt in an upcoming article but I can promise it will make European Delivery even more of an experience).  Herr Roller offered to accompany me to my meetings, but allowed me to see my new car for a few seconds before we sped off in a very fast 130i.  We didn’t make it back until 17:30 and the Center was empty.  Herr Roller himself did the delivery and off I went to my “Stammhotel” on the Leopoldstraße, the Holiday Inn. This hotel is highly recommended for BMW owners doing European Delivery for one reason (besides the enormous breakfast buffet): the very safe underground parking garage.

The adventure had only begun.  See a related article, Journeys: Austria, Germany, Hungary, and Italy by Car, for details on the 2426 km drive.

HERR ROLLER’S ADVICE

Diplom-Kaufmann Thomas Roller is the manager of the BMW Delivery Center where European Delivery cars are delivered.  He has some suggestions to make the European Delivery experience more fun and less stressful for American visitors.

• Order Satellite Navigation and get the DVD for Europe.  Having navigation in the car will allow you to enjoy your trip without going astray.  Asking for directions in a language you don’t speak and reading a map for an unfamiliar city takes away one’s enjoyment of the places you came to enjoy.  Arriving hours late for a once-a-day tour can ruin a vacation.
• Learn a few phrases German and the language(s) of any countries you will be visiting.  “Danke” (thank you), “bitte” (please and you’re welcome), and “Guten Morgen” (good morning) will go a long way.
• Plan for local weather.  Don’t order a car with summer (performance) tires for a mid-December delivery.  You (and your car) won’t get very far.
• Read the materials BMW provides, including information about drop-off locations and hours. Ask questions at the delivery center before leaving.
• Don’t overplan.  Many first-time visitors to Europe try to see everything.  Pick a few destinations and get to know them well.
• Verify the location and hours for your intended drop-off location when you pick-up the car at the Delivery Center.

EUROPEAN DELIVERY RESOURCES

The BMW of North America Web site presents an overview of European Delivery, including pricing.

Driving along the Autobahn towards Innsbruck with friends right behind (visible in side-view mirror).

The European Delivery forum at Bimmerfest attracts over 10% of BMW’s European Delivery customers.  They spend time in this online forum, asking questions, making vacation plans, even learning important phrases in German.  Moderated by Bernard Wang, the European Delivery forum at Bimmerfest is a time-tested resource for novice and experienced purchasers.

Rolf Raffelsieper – BMW Pick-up Service.  Herr Raffelsieper started working at BMW in 1967.  He will pick you up at Flughafen München Franz Josef Strauß (airport) and take you directly to the BMW European Delivery Center in Freimann or to your hotel.  He will gladly pick you up from your hotel and take you to the Delivery Center and can also meet you at E.H. Harms and take you to the airport after your drop-off. He can also arrange various tours, including visits to BMW facilities of interest.  E-mail Rolf at rolf.raffelsieper@web.de

Ricki Shamen, DiFeo BMW.  It is rare to work with the same BMW Client Advisor for 16 years.  I have worked with Ricki on multiple European Deliveries (and several U.S. deliveries) over the past 16 years. She enjoys each customer’s trip as much as if she were along for the ride.   Contact her at rshamen@penskeautomotive.com.

European Delivery Calendar.  Photographs from Germany and Austria along with all U.S., German, and Austrian holidays make the European Delivery 2006 calendar a valuable reference and keepsake.

Lufthansa. Lufthansa, German’s flagship airline, serves Munich from 16 cities, offering non-stop service from New York City (JFK and Newark), Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Charlotte, and Boston (in the summertime).  Most flights are operated with Airbus A340 aircraft, configured in a two- or three-class configuration.  Newark flights offer a 44-seat all business class alternative using a Boeing 737-700 corporate jet.  Lufthansa just opened up a new first class lounge in Munich with limousine service to the plane.  For European Delivery customers, Lufthansa offers a special two-for-one package. Visit Lufthansa at www.lufthansa-usa.com/241bmw.

InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden.  The InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden is located close to the Bavarian/Austrian border some 150 km from Munich and 35 km from Salzburg, making it an excellent destination for a European Delivery trip. The mountain resort sits ca. 1,000 m above sea level on the Eckerbichl Mountain range, offering spectacular views of Berchtesgadener Land.   Visit the hotel’s Web site for more information.

Holiday Inn Munich City-North  The Holiday Inn, located in the heart of Schwabing, is a short distance from the Englischer Garten and the many shops and cafés on the Leopoldstraße.  It is also situated within minutes of the A9 and has a safe, self-park garage ideal for a brand new BMW.  Visit the hotel’s Web site for more information

EUROPEAN DELIVERY TIMELINE

1.) Ca. three months before the desired date, decide the color and options, and negotiate the price.

2.) Sign the purchase order which your dealer then submits to the European Delivery department with your desired delivery date

3.) Your car is manufactured ca. 30 days prior to delivery

4.) You pay for the car, usually 14 days before scheduled pick up day; if you are leasing, your lease starts on this day.

5.) You pick up the car in Munich.

6.) You drop the car off in Europe (within 30 days for BMWFS lease, 90 days for BMWFS finance, 6 months otherwise; insurance for 14 days is included).

7.) Car is transported to port and then put on board ship

8.) Your car reaches USA (from drop-off, this takes up 3-4 weeks for the East Coast, 5-6 weeks for the West Coast)

9.) Vehicle clears customs, is processed at the VDC and shipped to the dealer (depending on a variety of factors, including how backed up U.S. Customs is, this can take 1-2 weeks)

10.) Redelivery

FROM DROP-OFF TO REDELIVERY

Once a BMW owner drops off his car at one of the authorized drop-off points, what happens to it?  For many, the four to eight week block of time is a black box during which all the owner can do is obsess and try to track the vehicle using fairly rudimentary tools.   Once a car is dropped off, it goes by truck to Bremerhaven, Zeebrugge (if the car is dropped off in Amsterdam, Madrid or Paris) or Southampton.  If a car is dropped off in Italy, it is driven to Munich for further transport.

All cars are loaded on the same vessels in the same manner; the only difference is that privately-owned vehicles (the European Delivery cars) have priority over new vehicles if there is a space limitation.

New cars are cleared through customs electronically before the ship reaches port; privately-owned vehicles are cleared individually and manually (paper forms must be sent to customs).

The author's car being checked over at BMW's Vehicle Distribution Center (VDC) in New Jersey

The VDC, or vehicle delivery center (previously known as the VPC), is where your car will be received upon its entry into the United States.  Most cars go to the Port of New York, where they are received at the North East Auto-Marine Terminal.  Cars destined for the west coast go to the VDC at the Port of Hueneme in the Oxnard Harbor District.

When the ship arrives, cars are offloaded by stevedores to the first point of rest, also called the pier, which is part of the Northeast Auto Terminal.  European Delivery cars are segregated on the pier until they are cleared by customs inspectors, who physically inspect each car.

Once the cars are cleared and released by customs, the cars are inspected by AVI (Automotive Visual Inspections) for any damage. Northeast Auto Terminal personnel then shuttles the cars, a ca. 2.4 km trip on a private road, to the VDC.  Once the cars arrive at the VDC, barring the removal of the cosmoline (which European Delivery cars do not have), the process is the same.  Upon arrival, the cars are taken into inventory, washed, and taken into the facility.  Each vehicle is visually inspected for damage.  Damage might have occurred during use in Europe and during transport.  The VDC is especially concerned with safety-related damage or defects such as broken lights or gouges in wheels.  They also check for any factory defects such as “airbag light on.”  Any campaigns (normal updates) are performed and the car’s paper trail is reviewed.

From there, the cars go to your local BMW dealer for redelivery.

EUROPEAN ROAD WARRIOR’S ARSENAL

Keeping in touch with friends and family nowadays during a trip doesn’t mean sending a postcard, unless it’s a digital one.   Given the ubiquity of Wi-Fi, a traveler has little excuse but to e-mail a few pictures of his new BMW within hours of delivery. Having the right arsenal of tools can make this a lot easier.

For this trip, I assembled the following:

• Camera – Sony CyberShot DSC-V3 (7 megapixel)
• Mobile phone – tri-band Sony Ericsson S710a for use with the BMW’s built-in Bluetooth system (phone has with built-in 1.3 megapixel camera)
• Laptop – Lenovo (née IBM) ThinkPad T42 with built-in Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity
• Internet Connectivity – Most hotels (including the InterContinental) have wired if not wireless Internet access.  At rates of $20-30 per 24 hours, it is expensive compared to the U.S. standard of $10 per day. Internet cafés and wardriving offer an inexpensive alternative.
• Skype – Skype’s voice-over-IP (VoIP) services allow users to make free calls to each other; a call to a landline phone in the United States from Germany costs € 0.017 per minute.  Skype can be used to place phone calls from Lufthansa flights with FlyNet at the same rates.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.