Driving in Italy has always been considered a task best undertaken by Italians, especially in large cities.    To an outsider, it appears that anarchy reigns and traffic lights and traffic rules are advisory, at best.  From speeding to driving with mobile phone in hand, a visitor quickly understands why the number of people injured on Italian roads is five times the number as on French roads.

(For an understanding of even how some Italians see driving in Italy, see the excellent Bruno Bozzetto animation at the end of this story.)

The adoption of a new highway code is an attempt to get Italians to improve behavior behind the wheel.  Already in force are important road safety rules.  One deals with pedestrian crossings, a common source of death and injury in the country.  Many crossings are not well marked, but the new code promises a “more rigorous right of way” for pedestrians, although it’s not clear how this will be enforced.

Speeding and driving while intoxicated are also covered by the new code.  Drivers under the age of 21 are not permitted to drink at all and the permitted blood-alcohol level for those older than 21 has been lowered from 0.8 grams to 0.5 grams per liter.

For visitors, the new rules also mean that they can no longer drive with impunity and immunity: foreigners caught breaking the law will have to pay their fines on the spot or risk having their cars impounded.

–Paul Riegler is associate editor for technology at Executive Road Warrior.

The borders of the region, comprised of the Austrian province of Tyrol and the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Trent (Trentino in Italian, Trient in German), are formed by the former former Austrian County of Tyrol (Gefürstete Grafschaft Tirol), which was divided between Austria and Italy after the First World War.

The region has nonetheless maintained its cultural integrity and both sides of the border maintain strong cultural, social, and economic ties.  Indeed, the South Tirol is fully bi-lingual, both socially and legally.

Bozen (Bolzano in Italian) is the capital of the South Tirol and is situated in a valley at an altitude of 265 m.   The region has been inhabited by a German-speaking population since 679.   (In a nod to the region’s multi-lingual character, the Freie Universität Bozen/Libera Università di Bolzano, founded in 1997, holds lectures in German, Italian, and English.)

Due to its location between the major cities of Venice and Augsburg, bishop Konrad of Trient elevated Bozen to the status of a town in 1190.  Today, Bozen is easily reached via the A22 (E45) Autobahn/Autostrade, which continues to Trent and Verona in the south and Innsbruck in the north.  A small airport has regular flights to and from destinations within Europe.

The town’s center is so integral to life in Bozen that it’s known as the “gute Stube” or parlor of the city.  The main town square is the Waltherplatz or Piazza Walther, named after Walther von der Vogelweide, one of the great Austrian lyric poets of the Middle Ages.  On one side of the square is the Gothic Duomo, or cathedral, construction on which was first started in 1295 in the Romanesque style and continued in 1340 in Gothic style.  It was finished in the 15th century.

The Via dei Portici/Bozner Lauben (Bolzano Arcades) form the core of the main shopping street in the city center. Originally built in the 12th century, the Laubengasse runs over one kilometer and is filled with galleries and shops of all kinds.

At the end of the Lauben is the Piazza delle Erbe/Obstmarkt, the lively fruit and vegetable market with vendors offering mounds of South Tyrolean fruit and vegetables as well as pleasant sidewalk cafés to take in the sights and the shoppers.

While Bozen has several interesting museums including the South Tyrol Museum of Natural History and the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, the biggest attraction is the South Tyrol Museum of Archeology, home of Ötzi, the 5000-year-old ice man.

Ötzi, known as the Simulaun Man or the Man from Hauslabjoch, is a well-preserved natural mummy of a man who lived 5300 years ago.  The mummy was discovered in 1991 in the Schnalstal glacier in the Ötzal Alps near Hauslabjoch, on the border between Austria and Italy. Ötzi (the nickname comes from the Ötztal (Ötz valley). is Europe’s oldest mummy and is displayed with his belongings in the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology (Südtiroler Archäologiemuseum/Museo archeologico dell’Alto Adige).

Outside the Altstadt across the Tafler river, one will find notable remnants of Fascist architecture. Mussolini had made it a priority to try to overwrite and erase Austrian history in the region, and the Court of Law and the controversial Monumento alla Vittoria (Victory Monument), erected in 1928, celebrate the Italian victory in the First World War.

A visit to Bozen would not be complete without visiting Oberbozen/Soprabolzano (Upper Bolzano), a picturesque village 1200 m above Bozen.  Oberbozen is reached by a Seilbahn, or cable car, that provides the best views in the region.  Once there, there are restaurants, cafés, visit the bee museum and Plattnerhof bee farm in Costalovara and the earth pyramids in Valle del Rio Rivellone.

Finally, when it comes to dining, think Alpine meets Mediterranean.  In the many dining establishes of Bozen, the visitor will find traditional Austrian and Alpine fare in addition to pasta, pizza, and carpaccio.   The wines of the Südtirol/Alto Adige , white, influenced heavily by Austrian and German winemaking traditions, are among the finest in the world.  Just keep in mind that the Gewürztraminer originated in the Südtirol town of Tramin.

BOZEN/BOLZANO

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

Officially, the northern part is the “Südtirol” (South Tyrol) or “Alto Adige”, and both the German and Italian names are used here for most locales. The southern part, “Trentino”, is almost all Italian-speaking. Many of the towns and cities covered here are just off the A22, but there are several other interesting destinations that are quite close–Lake Garda to the west, the Dolomites and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia to the east, for example. (Locales are listed generally from north to south.)

Vipiteno/Sterzing This small town just south of the Austrian/Italian border is perfect for a pleasant lunch stop en route.

Brixen/Bressanone (Third largest city in the northern part of the region; population ca. 20,000.) Attractive market city with interesting Baroque Cathedral and Palace. Locally famous hotel: Hotel Elephant.

Bozen/Bolzano (Largest city in the region; population approx. 100,000.) More industrial and commercial than the others, but with an attractive older center. Home of the Alpini High Command (somewhat equivalent to the U.S. 10th Mountain Division); look for their distinctive uniforms and hats. Bolzano has several castles, churches, and the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology (with  its most famous occupant, Ötzi). Among the other interesting sites are Walther Square, with a statue of Walther von der Vogelweide, the German minstrel, and the World War I Victory Monument, built by Mussolini in 1928 (photo here). Bolzano’s 20th Century history is somewhat controversial and there are several versions. Mussolini encouraged Italian industry to build facilities here in the 1930s. The reasons given at the time were to de-centralize industry from its base in Turin and Milan with the prospect of war and to support regional development. (For example, Lancia built a truck and transmission factory on Via Volta in Bolzano.  Some now claim this was part of a conscious effort to “Italianize” the region and reduce the Germanic linguistic and cultural heritage. Recommended hotels include the Park Laurin and the Walther.

Meran/Merano (Second largest city among this northern group; population ca. 36,500. Not to be confused with Murano, the island near Venice. Merano and Bolzano are connected by the MEBO, a limited-access, non-toll parkway.) Meran is a beautiful spa city, built on either side of the Passer/Passino river. The most famous attraction is the spa, now a modern facility designed by Milanese architect Matteo Thun. Other interesting sights include the two river promenades, the ornate Kurhaus, and the Trauttmansdorff Castle (with gardens). There is also an arcaded shopping street–Via Portici or Laubengasse . There are several classic older hotels in the center, on the north side of the river (e.g., the Hotel Palace, the Meranerhof, and the Westend). On the south side is the Steigenberger Hotel Therme Meran, a modern upscale hotel across from the new spa. Outside of the city center are an almost infinite number of guest houses, vacation lodges, and other accommodations. (Castel Fragsburg is now an R&Ch property.) There are many interesting mountain walking trails, breweries (Birreria Forst), and Speck Tirolese producers. There are frequent outdoor concerts in the Summer. Kallmünz, in the downtown area, is an extraordinary restaurant. Other highly regarded restaurants include the Altmeraner Gaststätte “Santner Klause”, the Sissi, and the spa’s cafe. Also recommended are the König and the Imperial pastry shops, both in Corso Libertà.

Meran may very well be the nicest small city in Europe. If visiting, the Pergola Residence, a modern country manor on Via Cassiano in the hills just outside of town (officially in Algund/Lagundo), is highly recommended.

There are interesting castles in the Merano area and surrounding mountain villages. Schloß Labers is said to have housed the SS, Nazi loot, and the famous counterfeit British five-pound notes.  Tyrol Castle (Schloß Tirol/Castel Tirolo) is in Dorf and has several museums. There is a museum focused on Ladin, the third language of the area, in Ćiastel de Tor (in St. Martin in Thurn).

Kastelruth/Castelrotto is ca. 70 km northeast of Trento and 20 km northeast of Bolzano. The central town square is historically interesting and a popular meeting place weekday afternoons at 14:45 (end of the school day for the youngest children) and on Sundays.
Trento (Largest city in Tentino; population ca. 55,000 in the city and 110,000 in the broader “township”.) Trento has several interesting palaces and churches, including its Duomo (Cathedral of St. Vigilius). Check out the Via Manzi for its mix of architectural styles. Most famous for the Council of Trent (mid 16th century) and the beginning of the counter-reformation. Has several 4-star hotels and four Michelin 1-star restaurants within a 5-mile radius.

There are winter and summer resorts to the east (and “above”) Trento in Folgaria, Lavarone and Luserna. This part of the Trentino Plateau had early Bavarian settlements and, at times, sought to be self-governing. The resorts are less fancy and the roads less exciting than those near Cortina, but the area is quite pleasant.

Verona (Population ca. 300,000; at the junction of the A22 and the A4–the Milan-to-Venice Autostrada.) Famous for Juliet’s balcony and the Roman-era arena, but there is much more to see  in this UNESCO world heritage city.  Among the sites related to more modern history, the Santuario della Madonna di Lourdes (at Forte San Leonardo / Werk San Leonardo from the Habsburg days) was used to incarcerate and torture allied troops, Jews, and anti-fascist suspects when Verona became part of the Repubblica di Salò in the last years of WWII. Galeazzo Ciano, Mussolini’s son-in-law, was tried for plotting against the republic; he was executed on the banks of the Adige with many other officers on what is now Via Columbo.

At this point you can go west on the A4 to Lake Garda (especially Sirmione at the southern end or Salò and Gardone Riviera with “Il Vittoriale” on the west shore), Brescia (industrial, but with a nice Mille Miglia museum), and Bergamo (with its walled upper town). Or you can go east to Padua and Venice. If you want to see the Giotti paintings in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, you MUST book ahead during peak season, usually by a week or more. There are numerous city hotels, guest houses, and resort hotels in this region. The Garda area is a famous center of the “slow food” movement, so there are truly many exceptional dining options.

Modena. The Duomo is Romenesque (of course) and has an interesting museum. The Biblioteca Estense is one of the great libraries of Italy, and the associated Galleria has a famous collection of paintings and terracotta. Several excellent restaurants. But, you probably want to go for the cars. Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, and De Tomaso are produced in or around Modena. One option is to go in late April or early May for the Modena Terra di Motori, which fills the town square with classic cars. The official tourist agency has information about automobile-related  activities and museums.

Bologna (Population ca. 375,000).  One of the great cities in Italy and home of its oldest university (and possibly the oldest university in Europe). Home to fantastic food. Bologna has an arcaded city center; historic gates and other structures; the usual duomo, basilicas and churches; an architecturally interesting central train station (designed by Gaetano Ratti); and a botanical garden. Both Luigi Galvani and Guglielmo Marconi taught at the university. Ducati is headquartered here. There are numerous hotels at all price points, with the Grand Hotel Baglioni one of the great luxury hotels of Italy, with prices to match. The central square is actually two adjacent squares (Piazza Maggiore e del Nettuno) in the center of the red-roofed old city. At the square are city hall and several palaces. The National Art Gallery is just north of the university.  Bologna now has a restricted traffic zone (ZTL) in the city center. If you are driving, you must make advanced arrangements with your hotel 48 hours in advance to be authorized to enter.

Parma (Population ca. 175,000. Before you go, read John Grisham’s Playing for Pizza.) Parma is 65 km the west of Modena (and therefore also to the west of Bologna) via the A1 or the S9. Visit the Palazzo della Pilotta (with the Academy of Fine Arts), the Palazzo Ducale (Palazzo del Giardino), and Casa Toscanini. Justly famous for its cheese and dry-cured prosciutto, the food is top-quality. ViaMichelin has a food-related tour here.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

While Milan is big, crowded, expensive, and has car restrictions in the city center if you are driving, it is also filled with history and sophistication. Milan has great food, top hotels, interesting tourist sites, and art by Michelangelo (his last scupture) and Leonardo da Vinci (The Last Supper). Shopping is also big here and the city boasts numerous designer shops.  Visit Via Della Spiga, closed to traffic,  for its stores including Bottega Veneta, Bvlgari, and Prada, and Via Montenapoleone, where you will find Cartier, Gucci, Prada Uomo, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino, and Versace Donna.   Armani has its flagship store on the Via Manzoni.  The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, dating from the nineteenth century, is a cool oasis of commerce.

No visit to Milan would be complete without visiting two of the major sites are the Duomo (a Gothic cathedral of immense proportion) and the Castello Sforzesco (official website here; the only castle I know with a car emblem over the entrance).  The Pinacoteca di Brera, which houses one of the leading collections of medieval and Renaissance art, should be next on your list.  If you can, plan a night at the opera at La Scala, the world’s most storied opera house, which was recently renovated.

To get around in the city, walk or take the Metro (subway).  Taxi stands are numerous, typically near the major Metro stops and piazze.  Parking in central Milan is so complicated (and expensive) that even the official city tourist website has difficulty explaining it.

Don’t drive in the central area anyway! The “Sosta Milano” parking system – tickets to be bought at newstands and placed in your car after “scratching” day and time – is so complicated and expensive that if you really want to take the car, the best solution is to leave it in one of the twenty or so guarded parking lots in the downtown area.

If that weren’t bad enough, there is also a congestion charge to just drive into the center.