The Atlanta-Shanghai route had been cut back and then discontinued in 2009, but resumed last year with just two flights a week.  All the other cut routes had been previously reduced to seasonal service.  The cuts reflect Delta’s plans to cut its flight capacity by 2% in the next year.

Delta also announced plans to add a seasonal international route from Detroit to Paris, France this summer.  That route will replace a Seattle-Paris route that was previously operated by Air France, Delta’s joint venture partner.

Bratislava’s strategic position (it sits astride the Danube River and is the only capital city in the world to border two independent countries, Austria and Hungary) and multi-cultural history have lured many global companies to the city, bringing many business travelers with them.

Since 2010, there has been yet another good reason to visit the city: the Kempinski Hotel River Park.  Located in the newly-built River Park business complex, on the banks of the Danube, the hotel is minutes away from Bratislava’s historic Old Town and close to the city’s castles, museums, and monuments.

As we drove up (I was accompanied by Christian Stampfer, our European Editor), the hotel’s Rolls Royce Phantom sedan, which transports guests at no charge to various destinations within the city, was parked in front.  The doorman ignored the Rolls, welcomed us to the hotel, and escorted us to the front desk.  As we checked in, we were offered a cup of warm tea made with fruit and wine which was so good I took another cup up to the room.

THE ROOM

My Executive Club Room, located on a high floor, was warm and inviting and had wonderful views of the Danube.  A fruit platter, which welcomes every guest at the hotel, was waiting for me on the side table.

The king-size bed was extremely comfortable and I woke up refreshed and ready for the challenges the next day. The mini-bar included a choice of complimentary beverages as well as some that were available for purchase. The bath area merits special mention as the water temperature in the standalone shower (there is a separate tub) was digitally controlled (see the slide show).

The climate control was easy to use but, as Christian found out in his room (which was identical to mine), it could not be turned off completely.

ROAD WARRIOR SUPPORT

The generously-sized writing desk gave me plenty of room to spread out.  The good-looking desk chair was comfortable and supportive (a rare combination). Wireless internet access was fast and free.

The Executive Lounge, in addition to being a comfortable place to relax with drinks, has two private meeting rooms reserved for Executive Club level guests.

The Zion Spa offers a variety of stress-relieving treatments but my favorite was the Alpha Sphere, which, perhaps somewhat in keeping with Bratislava’s UFO bridge, was out of this world.

The Alpha Sphere combines light and sound, a lounge-type chair, and an enclosed space. During the treatment, which lasts about 40 minutes, the sound is felt throughout one’s entire body and, when combined with the monochromatic blue color, the gentle rocking of the chair, and the chair’s warmth, serves to decrease stress and tension and (according to the Alpha Sphere’s creators) enhance creativity, lower blood pressure, and widen one’s perception.   I definitely felt less stress and tension after my treatment, as did Chris after his.

For meetings and gatherings, the hotel’s 11 elegant and modern meeting and banquet rooms can accommodate as many as 340 people and as few as six.

DINING

The River Bank Brasserie serves breakfast as well as lunch and dinner. The breakfast buffet offers a vast assortment of freshly baked breads (the hotel has a German baker in house), cheeses, cold cuts, fish, cereals, yogurts, and juices as well as an unlimited menu of hot items.  The waffles with warm maple syrup were particularly tasty.

The Arte Restaurant offers unique food and wine pairings in a relaxed atmosphere.  The Park Lounge, located off the lobby, has a wonderful wine list (I could have spent hours examining the wine wall).  I tried the Kempinski White (2009), which was half chardonnay and half rulandské šedé (Pinot Grigio), and it was the best Slovakian wine I had on my visit.  It was somewhat complex with a lively acidity but extremely well-balanced.

In the Executive Club lounge, a light breakfast is served in the morning and canapés are served in the evening, along with drinks.  Beverages including a variety of juices are available throughout the day.

BOTTOM LINE

Business travelers invoke multiple criteria when choosing a hotel but stress reduction is rarely on the list.  Stepping into the Kempinski River Park’s airy lobby began a process that continued throughout my stay and made me feel relaxed and stress free despite a hectic schedule.

Small details make one’s stay memorable and the staff did everything possible to make our stay pleasant, in some cases going above and beyond the call of duty.  When my camera’s battery lost its charge more quickly than expected (and I didn’t have the charger along since it usually lasts over a week), a member of the hotel’s staff made arrangements for the battery to be charged overnight at a local camera store and she delivered the fully charged battery to me the next morning.

The Kempinski Hotel River Park Bratislava is only 35 minutes from Vienna International Airport and is easily reachable by car or train from major European cities.  I hope to be returning soon.

Kempinski Hotel River Park
Dvořákovo nábrežie 6
811 02
Bratislava, Slovakia
Tel +421 2 3223 8222
www.kempinski.de

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

KEMPINSKI RIVER PARK – THE ROOM

KEMPINSKI RIVER PARK – HOTEL ENVIRON

KEMPINSKI RIVER PARK – DINING

Bratislava became the capital of Slovakia in 1968, when Czechoslovakia became a decentralized federation.  The name Preßburg, which is its name in German, comes from its original name in Slovak, Prešporok.   Especially in neighboring Austria, and to a small extent in English as Pressburg, the German name is still used.

Bratislava has a rich cultural and intellectual history. It is the home to several universities, the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra, two opera houses, and the Slovak National Theater. When Mozart was six years old, he played for Empress Maria Theresia in the Pálfiho palác (Palffy Palace).

Over the centuries, Bratislava was closely influenced both culturally and politically by Vienna and, with a distance of 60 kilometers (37 miles), Vienna and Bratislava are two of the closest European capital cities.

In 1850, 75% of the city’s residents were German speaking.  By the end of the First World War, the percentage was only 36%.  Today, while there is evidence of the city’s German-language heritage in street names and stores, the German speaking population is below 1%.

Bratislava is a mixture of old and new.  The city’s compact Old Town is a window to multiple pasts, the glory of the Habsburg monarchy, the grayness of having been behind the Iron Curtain, and the modernity of a new nation building its future.

While streets such as Michalská and Panská are home to baroque palaces, and a grand opera house, built by the Habsburgs, draws music lovers from throughout Europe, Kapitulska terminates with Katedrála svätého Martina (St. Martin’s Cathedral), a Gothic cathedral consecrated in 1452 that was the site of the coronation of 11 Hungarian or Hungarian monarchs including Maria Theresia.

Bratislavský hrad (Bratislav Castle) is situated in the middle of the city on a rocky hill in the Little Carpathians overlooking the Danube.   From the castle, visitors can see Bratislava itself, as well as Austria and Hungary. The castle has four towers including the Crown Tower, which houses the crown jewels and four gates including the Sigismund Gate, which is the best-preserved original part of the site, dating back to the 15th century.

Another very visible landmark is the Nový Most, or New Bridge, built in 1972 by the Communist regime.  The construction of the Nový Most destroyed important older neighborhoods including the Jewish Quarter and is still considered an eyesore by some although, given its space ship-like appearance, it is fondly referred to as the UFO bridge and the restaurant high atop the bridge’s observation deck is also called UFO.

Hrad Devín, or Devin Castle, overlooks the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers from an altitude of 212 meters.  The castle itself, which was a center of the Moravian Empire in the ninth century, is situated just inside the Slovak border with Austria. Prior to 1989, while the castle was open to the public, the area along the border was “protected” by watchtowers and barbed-wire fences.

Bratislava is easily reached by non-stop flights to Vienna International Airport.  Austrian Airlines offers regular service from multiple U.S. cities.  The drive to Bratislava is 35 minutes.  The city’s first five-star hotel, the Kempinsky Hotel River Park, opened in 2010.

–Christian Stampfer is the European Editor of Executive Road Warrior.

BRATISLAVA OLD TOWN AND RIVER PARK

BRATISLAVA HRAD DEVÍN

Tradition is everywhere, from the Kaffeehaus (coffee house) to ubiquitous paintings and photographs of Kaiser Franz Joseph I., the Habsburg emperor who ruled the Austro-Hungarian Empire from 1848 to 1916.

Vienna is one of the only cities in the world with its own cuisine (most cuisines are regional- or country-specific) and it’s not just Sacher Torte and Strudel.  Rather, it is built upon the culinary traditions of the many outposts of the Empire.  From Hungary came imaginative tortes and gulyás  (which became Gulasch, or goulash, even though gulyás in Hungary is a soup), from Milan, the breaded veal cutlet which became Wiener Schnitzel, from Bohemia, hearty dumplings and savory meats—in Vienna, all this and more was mixed together, improved upon, and reborn as Wiener Küche (Viennese cuisine)

Indeed what many refer to as Danish is said to have originated in Vienna [the Danes call it wienerbrød (Viennese bread)] and the croissant is thought to have been created by Viennese bakers to celebrate the defeat of the Turks in the Siege of Vienna (the French consider the croissant to be in the Viennoiserie family).  Despite the battle, the Viennese remain grateful to the Turks for having introduced coffee to the city, thereby starting the Kaffeehaus (coffee house or café) tradition that remains a big part of daily life in the city.

Vienna is also the only capital city in the world with a significant wine-growing region (ca. 700 hectares) within its borders.  The city’s wines are best sampled in a Heuriger, a tavern offering wine from the last harvest (the word “Heurig” literally means “this year’s”) which can be found in outlying districts of the city such as Grinzing and Nußdorf.  There locals and visitors enjoy a glass of locally-produced Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, or Zweigelt with light food and snacks.

For decades if not centuries, the fine dining scene in Vienna focused on formal, dark restaurants such as the Drei Husaren and those found in the Hotel Sacher and Hotel Imperial.   Today, however, a new generation of restauranteurs is challenging that tradition with casual restaurants such as Österreicher im MAK and Steirereck Meierei.  Beyond the nobel (luxury, literally “fancy”) restaurants are the bürgerliche (bourgeois or somewhat middle-class), and the Beisl (tavern or pub).

Join me on a culinary tour of Vienna as we sample the old alongside the new, the nobel, the bürgerliche, and the Beisl.

MEIEREI (STEIRERECK)

A walk through the Stadtpark past the tourists and the golden statue of waltz king Johann Strauß II playing the violin brings us to the Meierei, run by the Reitbauer family, which also owns the adjoining and far more formal Restaurant Steirereck, with which it shares a kitchen and menu items.  The word “Meierei” means a dairy farm and a milk theme runs deep throughout the restaurant, with milky white walls, glass milk bottles on the tables, and green floors.  Cheese looms large on the menu, with 120 varieties from 13 countries, many local.

Our meal began with the Hochzeitssuppe, or “wedding soup,” clear beef bouillon poured over four superb bites: a large Grießnockerl (semolina dumpling), a stuffed wonton, a crispy piece of Milzschnitte (lung strudel), and a small biscuit.

To accompany this, we were served a glass of Der Schrammler – Grande Reserve 2006, a wonderful gemischter Satz or field-blend wine made from Grüner Veltliner Nußberg and Rosengartl Alte Reben.  This wine was created by Viennese winemaker Fritz Wieninger working with Adi Schmid, the Steirereck’s sommelier, and named after the Philharmonia Schrammeln, a group of musicians from the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra.

The meal continued with Reinanke, a white fish native to Austria.  The Reinanke, served with piquant cabbage slaw and lemon balm, melted in my mouth.  The accompanying dumpling was light and fluffy.

We concluded the meal with scrumptious Zwetschkenknödel, plum-stuffed dumplings with plum ice cream.

Meierei
Am Heumarkt 2A / im Stadtpark, 1030 Vienna
+43 1 713-3168.
www.steirereck.at

THE HEURIGER

Heuriger is the Austrian word for both the wines of the latest harvest as well as the place that they are served.  The tradition of the Heuriger dates back to 1784 when Kaiser Josef II. (1741-1790) allowed wine producers to sell their own wines as well as food in their gardens without having to pay for a restaurant license.  The Kaiser’s edit required that a Heuriger offer a limited selection of food, typically cold meats, cheeses, and cheese spreads such as Liptauer, so as not to compete with restaurants and also stated that a Heuriger can only be open for a limited amount of time each year.  To indicate that a Heuriger is open, its owners hang Buschen, or pine branches, over the entrance (this is why a Heuriger is called a Buschenschank in some areas of Austria).

Weingut am Reisenberg

Weingut am Reisenberg is a Heuriger located in the hills of Grinzing (19. Bezirk or District) of Vienna.  It’s a good 10-minute walk up a steep hill but it’s worth it: the view of the city off in the distance, past the vineyards, is stunning, especially as dusk approaches.

The wines at Weingut am Reisenberg are average for the region but the panoramic view do seem to enhance every sip.   In true Heuriger fashion, dinner is a buffet; the buffet the evening I was there, it consisted of typical Austrian specialties including Wiener Schnitzel, Tafelspitz [boiled beef, sliced and typically served with creamed spinach, Rösti (fried potatoes), apple-horseradish sauce, and chive sauce], Spätzle (small egg dumplings), and, for dessert, Kaiserschmarrn.

Kaiserschmarrn is a pancake dish first prepared for Kaiser Franz Joseph I. (1830-1916) and roughly can be translated into the “emperor’s nonsense” or the “emperor’s mishmash.”  The pancake is cut into pieces while frying, shredded, and sprinkled with powdered sugar.  It is typically served hot with apple or plum compote.

Weingut am Reisenberg
Oberer Reisenbergweg 15, 1190 Wien
+43 (1) 320 93 93
www.weingutamreisenberg.at

Heuriger Christ

Winemaker Rainer Christ is a member of the WienWein group, which was founded in 2006 by leading Viennese vintners including Christ, Michael Edlmoser, Fritz Wieninger, and Richard Zahel.   Their wines are among the finest from the Viennese growers and a visit to Heuriger Christ affords an opportunity to sample recent vintages.   Christ’s 2008 Grüner Veltliner Bruch, 2008 Bisamberg Alte Reben (a gemischter Satz), and the 2007 Mephisto are worthy of note.

Weingut & Heuriger Christ
Amtsstraße 10-14, 1210 Wien – Jedlersdorf
+43 1 292 51 52
www.weingut-christ.at

KULINARIUM 7

It’s rare that I write a review that warns readers to studiously avoid a hotel or restaurant but alas, this is one and it proves that the most beautiful and elegant settings can do little to make up for a surly host, glacier-slow service, and so-so food.  In fact, the most interesting thing we were served was a refreshing towelette, the size of a mint, that unfurled into a washcloth when water was applied.

A restaurant that expects its diners to sit for meals that are dragged out over many hours should at least provide chairs that have good back support—or any back support for that matter.  At the Kulinarium, function follows form with backless stools that ultimately resulted in my making an “early” departure (three hours after arriving, I should add) before the main course arrived.

The appetizer of foie gras fried with garam masala, caramelized chicory, and mango sounded more interesting than it was, although it was nicely paired with a superb Riesling Auslese 2006, from Salomon Undhof in the Kremstal.

The Kürbiscremesuppe (cream of pumpkin soup) with candied ginger and linseed oil, paired with a Morillon Kranachberg 2007 from Peter Skoff in Südsteiermark (South Styria) was ok but paled in comparison with other pumpkin soups I had recently tried.

A tasty piece of fried cauliflower, served with avocado and citrus fruits, was marred by the accompanying rubbery scallop.  It was paired with a wonderful Grüner Veltliner “Goliath” 2006, from Birgit Eichinger in the Kamptal.

After waiting over 45 minutes for the main course after the cauliflower, I decided that I could sit no longer and took the Tram (local term for Straßenbahn or streetcar) back into the city center.  The hard wooden streetcar seats soothed my aching back.

Kulinarium 7
Sigmundgasse 1/1, 1070 Vienna
+43 1 522 33 77
www.kulinarium7.at

ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL

Zum Schwarzen Kameel is a Viennese institution, tracing its origins back to 1618 and its current location and well-preserved Jugendstil interior to 1901.  Beethoven was a regular patron; somewhere in the restaurant’s archives there are hand-written notes by the deaf composer with his lunch orders.  A combination delicatessen, sandwich shop, and white-cloth restaurant, Zum Schwarzen Kameel offers an enticing Heimkehrmenü, or homecoming menu, intended for Viennese who have been away and are now returning home.  It also serves as a wonderful tutorial for non-Viennese who want the best of what Wiener Küche has to offer.

The Heimkehrmenü meal starts with hand-cut ham with shaved horseradish, and continues with Kalbsgulasch (veal goulash) with Spätzle, Wiener Schnitzel, and for dessert, Marillenpalatschinken (apricot Palatschinken, a rolled-up crêpe-like eggy pancake).  The waiter said there was another possible main course after the Wiener Schnitzel, presumably for those who had not only been away from Vienna for a while but who had not eaten during their absence, but I declined.

A Sauvignon Blanc Rothüttl 2008 from the Weingut Gross in Südsteiermark (South Styria) was the perfect accompaniment.

Up front, in the sandwich area, Zum Schwarzen Kameel offers dozens of small and inexpensive sandwiches, ranging from salmon to salami to Liptauer cheese (made from a soft cheese such as cottage cheese, cream cheese, quark cheese, and spices such as paprika, caraway seeds, and fresh parsley).

Zum Schwarzen Kameel
Bognergasse 5, 1010 Vienna
+43 1 533 81 25
www.kameel.at

ÖSTERREICHER IM MAK

With a few exceptions (Café Sabarsky at the Neue Galerie in New York comes to mind), museum restaurants are hardly destinations unto themselves.  But then again, most museum restaurants don’t have star chef Helmut Österreicher as the owner.  Österreicher, who made his name as chef at the Restaurant Steirereck, has created a menu that offers both classic and (to use his words) “newly-interpreted” Viennese cuisine at the Museum für angewandte Kunst (MAK, or Museum for Applied Art).

Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner, but there always seems to be room at Österreicher im MAK for those who have come to admire the MAK’s collection of Wiener Werkstätte furniture, glass, china, and silver, and textiles.

The indoor dining rooms were quiet the day I visited; given the beautiful, late summer weather, the place to dine was outdoors in the museum’s courtyard.

Our meal started off with a Kürbiscremesuppe, cream of pumpkin soup with pumpkin seed oil, which had just the right texture and flavor to make it the best pumpkin soup I could recall having.  That was followed by an exceptionally tender Wiener Zwiebelrostbraten, Viennese minute steak with onions, accompanied by home fries.  Not surprisingly, this was the best Zwiebelrostbraten I could recall having in the past few years.

Our server recommended the Franz 2006 from Weingut Weninger in the Mittelburgenland (Middle Burgenland), a full-bodied cuvee that is made from Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Blaufränkisch that perfectly matched the Zwiebelrostbraten.

The Mehlspeisen (Austrian for dessert, literally “flour food”) I selected from the Moderne side of the menu was a magnificent and airy gebackenen Topfen mit Hollerkoch (baked curd cheese with elderberry preserves).

Don’t let the modern look fool you: Österreicher im MAK is strong on tradition where it counts.  The beverage selection is drawn solely from Austrian wines and spirits and the servers seem quite knowledgeable about them, and the kitchen draws heavily from local producers.  Just remember, Klassiche (classic) Wiener Küche on the left and modern interpretations on the right.

Österreicher im MAK
Stubenring 5, 1010 Vienna
+1 43 1 714 0121
www.oesterreicherimmak.at

RESTAURANT ROTE BAR IM HOTEL SACHER

Walking into the Hotel Sacher, built in 1876 and situated around the corner from the Staatsoper (State Opera) is like walking into fin-de-siècle Vienna, where Franz Joseph I. is still Kaiser (and König, king, of Hungary) and red velvet, grand crystal chandeliers, and polite service are the rule, not the exception.  The Sacher may best be known not as a hotel but rather for the Sacher-Torte, created by the young apprentice baker Franz Sacher for a dinner to be given by Prince Metternich (1773-1859) in 1832.  His son, Eduard (1843-1892), opened the Hotel Sacher in 1876; after his death, his widow, Anna Sacher, transformed the hotel into one of the finest in the world.

Seated for a late meal under a portrait of Kaiser Franz Joseph after attending a performance of Il barbiere di Siviglia, the Barber of Seville, I started with the soup,

Kräftige Tafelspitzsuppe mit Wiener Einlage (strong consommé with a choice of Viennese inserts; the inserts were Milzschnitte (lung strudel), Frittaten (sliced palatschinken or pancakes, Leberknödel (liver dumping) oder Grießnockerl (semolina dumpling). I recommend the Leberknödel and Frittaten (ask for both).

While the restaurant’s Tafelspitz is far from the city’s best, it was served with delicious creamed spinach and magnificent hash-brown potatoes, and a choice of chive cream sauce or apple horseradish.   Tafelspitz was a favorite of Kaiser Franz Joseph, who was watching over me as I ate, and he would have immediately recognized this version.

A sweet end to this late night supper was the Dessertkreation “Franz Sacher”, a medley of fresh strawberries, Apfelstrudel (apple strudel), a fruit tart, and of course a slice of Sacher-Torte mit Schlagobers (with whipped cream).  This was accompanied by a superb 2006 Beerenauslese from Martin Pasler in the Neusiedlersee (Burgenland) region.  This full-bodied, sweet wine is made from rich, ripe grapes affected by noble rot or botrytis and was an excellent way to conclude the evening.

Restaurant Rote Bar im Hotel Sacher
Philharmonikerstraße 4 A , 1010 Vienna
+43 1 51 45 68 41
www.sacher.com/en-red-bar.htm

For complete details of almost every course of every meal, watch the slide show.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

Mondsee, Austria

The country is known the world over for its music: Beethoven, Brahms, Haydn, Mozart, and Strauß (father and son) are some of the more prominent names of composers but Austria has more recent musical exports including Falco and DJ Ötzi.

One of the most popular destinations in Austria (Österreich) is, of course, its capital city, Wien (Vienna), which offers imperial tradition, wine taverns, the coffee house (Kaffeehaus), and a blend of modern and traditional architecture.  There are of course so many beautiful and distinct areas of the country, all worth a visit at one time or another.

There are nine federal states (Bundesländer)

• Burgenland – capital Eisenstadt;
• Carinthia (Kärnten) – capital Klagenfurt;
• Lower Austria (Niederösterreich) – capital St. Pölten;
• Upper Austria (Oberösterreich) – capital Linz;
• Salzburg – capital Salzburg;
• Styria (Steiermark) – capital Graz;
• Voralberg – capital Bregenz;
• Vienna (Wien) – capital Vienna

If you are driving, make sure to have purchased an Autobahnvignette (toll sticker) and Warnwesten (safety vest, one of the latter for each occupant of the car – and they must be kept inside the vehicle, not in the trunk) before entering Austria.

Austrian Airlines offers non-stop flights from New York (JFK) and Washington, D.C. to Vienna and features numerous non-stop flights from destinations within Europe and the Middle East to Vienna as well.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

The ultimate souvenir: our 3er Series parked in front of the Hilton Budapest WestEnd

In recent years, savvy business travelers have joined the thousands of Americans who each year take a trip to Munich, Germany with one goal in mind.  Unlike other tourists, they are not there for the beer, the Schnitzel, the museums, and art galleries.  The real reason for the trip: to pick up a new BMW at BMW’s factory delivery center.

Some business travelers are en route to or from a meeting; others simply hop over to Munich for the day to garner the savings. Still others, including myself, integrate the European Delivery experience into a business trip cum holiday.

For years, BMW has offered its customers the option of picking up their cars at the factory.  After delivery, and being driven on the Autobahnen, Bundesstraßen, Landstraßen, and Autostrade of Europe, the car is shipped by the manufacturer back to the United States.  The trip has almost become a ritual for some; indeed a third of BMW’s customers have picked up a car at the factory in previous years. I am a member of that group, having joined the club in January 1982.

2363 BMWs were sold through BMW’s European Delivery program in 2005; BMW expects the number for 2006 to be even higher. European Delivery packages can include significant discounts (published discounts are seven percent on most models; individual dealers will frequently offer even better pricing), discounted or free airfare, meals, and the thrill of a factory tour that is the birthplace of the car being picked up.

For many, the opportunity to drive a BMW in its native habitat, the German Autobahn, is a major draw.  And for the business traveler who might be driving between cities for meetings, there is no need for a rental car.

EARLY DAYS

The European Delivery program has its roots in the 1950s when members of the U.S. armed forces returning from Europe brought with them a taste for smaller, sportier European cars. Many shipped their own cars to the States.

At the time, other than the occasional Volkswagen Käfer (Beetle), a non-U.S. manufactured vehicle was an unusual sight in the United States.  The eventual appearance of foreign cars was mostly due to Max Hoffman, the Austrian emigrant automotive entrepreneur who, starting in 1948, single-handedly created the imported car business in the United States and during his career marketed Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Jaguar, and BMW vehicles.

The author's 1982 BMW 320iS near his residence in Munich at the Studentenstadt Freimann

In the mid 1960s, with the advent of the jet age, Hoffman saw an opportunity to boost both sales and mindshare for BMW by offering prospective buyers the opportunity to take their first European vacation and drive around Europe in their own car (naturally, a BMW), which would follow them back to the U.S., giving the traveler a unique experience, saving money on the car purchase, and eliminating rental charges.

Hoffman was not alone. By the end of the decade, Mercedes, Saab, Volvo, Porsche, and Volkswagen all offered factory delivery for tourists.

ARRANGING YOUR EUROPEAN DELIVERY

European Delivery sales are arranged through dealers in the United States.  Many dealerships have one salesperson as a designated specialist.  Buyers should expect more paperwork (after all, buying a car usually doesn’t involve one’s passport) and need to be aware that the wait time for redelivery can be six to eight weeks.

Each BMW comes with premium auto insurance with no deductible for 14 days.  It can be extended at extra cost.  Each car is custom built; orders should be placed at least two months prior to the desired delivery date but depending on scheduling, a month in advance might work in some cases.  Buyers need to be aware of German (and other national) holidays when making travel plans; the delivery center is closed on German holidays and drop-off centers (over a dozen throughout Europe) are also likely to be closed on local holidays.

THE PROCESS

In the past ten months, I ordered two BMWs for factory delivery (one for me, one for my partner).  Placing the orders was easy.  The first car was a 2006 330xi in Sparkling Graphite, delivered in November 2005; the second was a 2006 325i in Japanrot (“Electric Red” in the U.S.) picked up in August 2006.

THE TRIPS

In November 2005, I combined a BMW factory delivery with client meetings in Munich and Vienna.  In 5 days, I covered 2426 km and four countries (Austria, Germany, Hungary, and Italy). I crossed international borders 22 times.   I only had meetings on the first and final days of my trip so I was able to plan each day’s drive the night before, choosing my destination primarily based on the promise of good weather.

Alongside the Donau (Danube) River in the Wachau Valley, Niederösterreich (Lower Austria)

After picking up my 330xi in Munich last November, my partner Dan Lafler decided he would like a new Japanrot (“Electric Red” in the U.S.) 3er .  I had a client meeting in Vienna planned so we planned a trip that would have us visiting three major cities on the Danube: Budapest, where the river is called the Duna; Bratislava (Preßburg), where it is called the Dunaj; and Vienna, where it is the Donau.  The Danube, the longest river in continental Europe, is a crucial link between the east and the west.  It has served as a frontier, separating warring parties, and as a blue artery of life, carrying food and people.

We arrived on 31. July around noon and were met by Rolf Raffelsieper (see resources).  Rolf brought us to our hotel, the Holiday Inn on the Leopoldstraße, but wasn’t inclined to let us relax from the trip; instead, we immediately headed out to the Biergarten at Kloster Andechs, one of the best breweries in Bavaria.

The next morning we were off to the factory delivery center and soon were on the way to Budapest via Austria.

Before crossing the border into Austria, we stopped at a Raststation and purchased a Mautvignette (toll sticker) valid for 10 days at a cost of €7,60. This is required on the Autobahn in Austria  (another is needed for Hungary, where they call it a Matrica).

Driving on the autópálya (highway or Autobahn) in Hungary

We entered Hungary at the border crossing Nickelsdorf/Hegyeshalom.  Hungary, although now part of the European Union, does not yet have a Schengen border (countries that have signed the Schengen agreement have removed border checks between participating countries), so passports are checked and stamped.

After a 700 kilometers drive, we arrived at the Hilton West End in Budapest.

For the next two and a half days, the 3er sat and we walked. We walked across the Lanchid(Chain Bridge) to Castle Hill, taking the cog railway up, and explored the hills of Buda including the spectacular views from Gellérthegy (Gellert Hill).

Budapest is one of the most beautiful cities on the Danube, a place that was intellectually and culturally drawn by the river toward Vienna and the West.   The Duna (Danube) divides the city into its two component parts, Buda and Pest, flowing beneath the famous bridges that link the two halves.  The river itself is the heart of the city, passing before the neo-Gothic Parliament building and the great castle of the Hungarian kings.

The view from Bratislava Castle

Finally, it was time to leave Budapest and get back in the BMW.  After 190 rainy kilometers and two hours of driving, we arrived in central Bratislava, parking in the Old City.  As we walked to Bratislava Castle, overlooking the Dunaj, it drizzled on and off. However, it was worth the walk since the views of the city were magnificent.

Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, is situated near the borders of Austria, Hungary, and the Czech Republic.  Bratislava was closely linked with Vienna, only 60 kilometers away, and was an important center of economic, political, and cultural life similar to other European capitals.

Soon it was time to continue to Vienna, our last Danubian city.  Vienna, an opulent city with a stubborn majesty as the capital of a long-gone empire, is a city of palaces, museums, concert halls, opera houses, and parks, the capital of a country that has what may very well be the largest per capita cultural budget in the world.  Of course, Johann Strauß II composed what has become the unofficial Austrian anthem, An der schönen blauen Donau, reflecting the Blue Danube’s importance to Vienna.

The next day, despite the rain, we still made it to the top of Stephansdom for incredible views of the city, walked through the Stadtpark, where the presence of Strauß and Beethoven is felt everywhere and shopped appropriately.  The afternoon and evening were reserved for meetings.  After all, this was business travel.

A Beisl, or small restaurant, at the Old Danube (Alte Donau)

The next day, the sun came out as we drove to Schloß Schönbrunn, the Habsburg summer palace.  After touring the castle and grounds, we drove 84 kilometers to Dürnstein (the town where Richard Löwenherz (Lionhearted) was held captive; it was too rainy to hike up to the ruins where he had been imprisoned so we “settled” for dining a local restaurant (which featured the local wines from the Wachau region, such as Grüner Veltliner).

The final full day in Vienna included a trip to the Alte Donau (Old Danube), a beach/resort area.  The following morning, we drove to the offices of Auto-Service Wien, the local agent for E.H. Harms, BMW’s shipper, where we turned in the car with 1416 kilometers on the clock.

A quick taxi ride to the airport and we were on our way back to New York. The car wouldn’t be far behind.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

10 STEPS TO EUROPEAN DELIVERY

1.) Ca. three months before the desired date, pick out the color and options, and negotiate the price.

2.) Sign the purchase order, which your dealer then submits to the European Delivery department with your desired delivery date.

3.) Your car is manufactured ca. 30 days prior to delivery.

4.) You pay for the car, usually 14 days before scheduled pick up day; if you are leasing, your lease starts on this day.

5.) You pick up the car in Munich.

6.) You drop the car off in Europe (within 30 days for BMWFS lease, 90 days for BMWFS finance, 6 months otherwise; insurance for 14 days is included).

7.) Car is transported to port and then put on board ship.

8.) Your car reaches USA (from drop-off, this takes up to 3-4 weeks for the East Coast, 5-6 weeks for the West Coast)

9.) Vehicle clears customs, is processed at the VDC and shipped to the dealer. (Depending on a variety of factors, including how backed up U.S. Customs is, this can take 1-2 weeks.)

10.) Redelivery.

ADVICE

Some suggestions to make the European Delivery experience more fun and less stressful for American visitors:

• Order Satellite Navigation and get the DVD for Europe.  Arriving hours late for a business meeting is bad for business. Getting lost on the byways can spoil your fun.
• Learn a few phrases in German and the language(s) of any countries you will be visiting.  “Danke” (thank you), “bitte” (please and you’re welcome), and “Guten Morgen” (good morning) will go a long way.
• Plan for local weather.  Don’t order a car with summer (performance) tires for a mid-December delivery.
• Don’t overplan.  Many first-time visitors to Europe try to see everything.  Pick a few destinations and get to know them well.
• Verify the location and hours for your intended drop-off location when you are at the Delivery Center.

EUROPEAN DELIVERY RESOURCES

BMW NA Web Site

BMW presents an overview of European Delivery, including pricing, at http://www.bmwusa.com/bmwexperience/europeandelivery/

European Delivery forum at Bimmerfest.

Over 10% of BMW’s European Delivery customers utilize this online forum, asking questions and making travel plans, www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=25

Rolf Raffelsieper – BMW Pick-up Service

Herr Raffelsieper started working at BMW in 1967.  For a very reasonable fee, he will pick you up at Flughafen München Franz Josef Strauß and take you directly to the BMW European Delivery Center or to your hotel.  He can also arrange various tours, including visits to BMW facilities of interest.  E-mail Rolf at rolf.raffelsieper@web.de

Ricki Shamen, DiFeo BMW

I have worked with Ricki on multiple European Deliveries (and several U.S. deliveries) over the past 16 years. rshamen@unitedauto.com

European Delivery 2006 Calendar

As a fun project, I created this calendar with photographs from Germany and Austria along with all U.S., German, and Austrian holidays.  Available at http://www.lulu.com/content/198766.

EUROPEAN DELIVERY PROGRAMS

View from Hilton guestroom towards Gustav Eifel's Nyugati train station.

WHERE IS IT?

Situated in the center of the business district, the Hilton WestEnd is convenient for meetings and touring.  The views overlooking the Nyugati train station are grand. The hotel is connected to what might be the largest indoor mall in Europe (the WestEnd  City Center), itself refreshing in its lack of American-style blandness. It  is a quick walk to the Duna (Danube), where crossing one of the many bridges takes you to Buda, the aristocratic capital, where the views from Géllerthegy (Gellert Hill) and the tiny streets of Castle Hill await.

ROOMS

The hotel was full, with the Hungarian Formula 1 race in town, as was the garage, and we probably got the last available room.  When I entered the room, its somewhat diminutive size gave me pause (the sleeping area looked not much bigger than the bath and entranceway), but the designers created a most comfortable environment despite the space limitations.  For me, beyond a comfortable bed, a hotel room needs to have good lighting, especially for reading in bed, a desk with easy access to power points for electricity and the Internet, and a comfortable desk chair.  The hotel excelled in these areas; during my stay, I participated in several conference calls (using Voice-over-IP on my laptop) and I was almost as comfortable as in my office back home.  The room also has a color television, voicemail, a minibar, bathrobe, slippers, iron and ironing board, a coffee/tea maker, lots of closet space, (wired) Internet access, and a fairly easy-to-use climate control.  The executive lounge on the 4^th floor provides a staff member who can assist with any detail (my key stopped working and she replaced it without my having to go to the front desk), plus a café that offers complimentary sandwiches, desserts, beer, wine, soda, and coffee.  An adjoining roof deck/lounge provides outdoor café-style seating with views of the Buda Hills, castles, and parliament.  Executive Floor guests receive private check-in/out in the lounge, and international daily newspapers and magazines.  Wireless Internet access  in the lounge is free.

RESTAURANTS AND BARS

After having an iced coffee in the café, I didn’t want to leave.  The café featured a full menu including traditional Hungarian favorites such as gulyás (goulash), a soupy peasant staple of stewed beef, vegetables and lots of paprikás.  Breakfast was served in the restaurant, and featured a small but tasty buffet of Hungarian cold cuts and cheese plus an assortment of eggs and other hot items.  I didn’t sample Restaurant Arrabona for dinner but the menu, a fusion of light Mediterranean food and Hungarian specialties,  looked enticing.  Kosher food is available.

BUSINESS AND MEETING FACILITIES

The light and airy meeting rooms (all enjoy natural daylight) at the Hilton WestEnd were some of the most modern I have seen.    The Ballroom (A+B) can seat up to 350 people while 11 other meeting rooms (all equally modern and airy) can handle meetings of all sizes and shapes.    They feature state-of-the-art technology and wireless Internet access.  Hilton Meetings has its own Business and Service Centre.  The comfortable and spacious Boardrooms feature ergonomic “eight-hour chairs” and are soundproof, perfect for smaller meetings.  A roof garden is available for receptions and dinners.  The hotel offers pecial activities for meeting attendees, such as a day with the hotel restaurant’s chef, who will teach how to prepare Hungarian recipes (highly recommended), and a balloon ride for sightseeing, which leaves from the WestEnd City Center’s adjoining rooftop.

LEISURE

The WestEnd Fitnesz Klub offers a wide variety of new workout equipment, including Technogym’s Cardiovascular and Strength products.  The Klub also has a brand new Finnish sauna and is located on the top floor of the hotel, also with spectacular views.

MY VERDICT

I always ask myself two questions: was I able to work productively and do I WANT to come back.  Given the comfortable rooms, excellent Hungarian cuisine, central location, friendly staff, and traditional Hungarian hospitality, I wouldn’t hesitate to return to the Hilton WestEnd (but I might ask for a bigger room next time).

CONTACT
Hilton Budapest WestEnd
1069 Budapest
Váci út 1-3
Telephone +36 1 288 55 10

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

In 5 days, I covered 2426 km and four countries (Austria, Germany, Hungary, and Italy). I crossed international borders 22 times.   I planned each day’s drive the night before, choosing my destination primarily based on the promise of good weather.

11. November – 460 km, Germany, Austria, and Italy

Friends Rich and Jill joined me for breakfast and soon enough, we were on the Autobahn in two 2006 3er Series BMWs.  Our itinerary: drive across the Brennerpaß into Italy and then head back north to Berchtesgaden.  I wonder if anyone noticed the consecutively numbered license plates on the two automobiles.

Destination: Berchtesgaden

We headed south in tandem on the A8, continuing on the A93 and then the A12 (Inntal-Autobahn) as it led to the Brenner-Autobahn (A13) and became the Autostrada del Brennero (A22)

Heading south was a good idea as it offered the best weather in the region. It turned out to be a beautiful, sunny day, with temperatures reaching 13°C.

Once we got to Sferzing (214 km later), it was time to change direction and head towards Berchtesgaden.  This involved retracing our steps until we reached the motorway intersection at Inntal, at which point we headed east on the A8 towards Salzburg.

I let the navigation system guide me the final kilometers to Berchtesgaden and the InterContinental Resort.  Given the fog, the late hour, and the fact that we were climbing to an altitude of 1000 m, I was able to enjoy the ride knowing that a little voice would tell me where to go.

Tired but exhilarated, I checked into the InterContinental. Even though it was dark, I could sense how incredible the view from my window would be.  I couldn’t wait until morning to actually see it.

View from the author's room at the InterContinental, Berchtesgaden

The view was incredible.  The InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden, built on the site of Field Marshal Hermann Göring’s house near the Berghof, is promoted as being “between heaven and earth,” set on a small plateau 1000 m high overlooking the Nationalpark Berchtesgaden in Berchtesgadener Land, Bayern (Bavaria) adjacent to Salzburg, Austria.  Innately beautiful, the Nationalpark contains five main mountain ranges; one third of the park is rocky and glaciated, a further third is covered in mixed woodlands of spruce, beech, fir, and other conifers; alpine pastures comprise the remainder.

12. November – 550 km, Salzburg and Niederösterreich

Today was a ca. 550 km roundtrip to Dürnstein.  Leaving the InterContinental, I took the windy Alpenstraße (B160) to the Tauern-Autobahn (A10), staying on that a brief 7 km or so until I get on the West-Autobahn (A1).   I stopped briefly along the banks of the Mondsee, one of the most beautiful lakes in the Salzkammergut.  I continued driving west to Melk, where I turned on to the Donau-Bundesstraße (B3), running along the Donau (Danube).

A view of the Danube in the Wachau valley

Dürnstein is where Richard Löwenherz (Richard the Lionhearted) was held captive after having been captured in Erdberg by the Mayor of Vienna in 1192. He was held in a huge fortress on a hill high above the village.  His loyal troubadour, Blondel de Neale, found him, so the story goes, by wandering around Europe singing Richard´s favorite ballads outside every castle, until a response came.

I stopped at the Gasthof Goldener Strauss for a glass of Grüner Veltliner (a local specialty), Frittatensuppe, Forelle (Trout), and for dessert, Powideltascherl before returning to Berchtesgaden.

13. November – 370 km, Bayern, Salzburg, Steiermark, Kärnten, Osttirol

Today was a Landstraße/Bundesstraße day. I started on the B305 leaving Berchtesgaden and, after 10 km, crossing the border into Austria, where I continued on Landstraßen and then the B159 for several kilometers.  At Hallein, I entered the Tauern-Autobahn (A10), going through the Tauernautobahn Tunnel.  After 128 km, at Lendorf I switched to the B100 to get to Lienz.  I then headed to Kitzbühel and back to Berchtesgaden taking the Felber Tauern Straße and Tunnel, and for the drive into Berchtesgaden, the Alpenstraße.

I drove through many different climates (coldest: 0,5°C – warmest 12°C in Berchtesgaden), went from light frost and a little snow on the ground to sunshine, and went up and down several times to 1200 or 1300 m.

14. November – 747 km, Germany, Austria, Hungary

For this trip, I planned a mix of Autobahnen and Bundesstraßen, allowing me to take the Tauern-Autobahn for ca. 60 km, and continue with Bundesstraßen (the B99 and the B320) for 75 km towards Liezen in Steiermark.  From Liezen I took the Pyhrn-Autobahn (A9) towards Leoben (Kärnten) for ca. 80 km.  From there I continued on the Semmering-Schnellstraße (S6) through Steiermark and Niederösterreich. The S6 meets the Süd-Autobahn (A2) at the Anschlußstelle Knoten Seebenstein where I continued on the A2 towards Wien (Vienna).  Near Wiener Neustadt I switched to the S4 (Mattersburger-Schnellstraße).  From there, I took the S31 to the Südost-Autobahn and in 6 km I was crossing the border into Hungary.

Neon-lighted highway rest area

I did get a chance to practice my Hungarian (which is somewhat limited) and enjoyed some nice palacsintá (with chestnut filling) and Hungarian coffee.  With some quick shopping (stocking up on paprikás and Marzipan), I still had a 380 km trip back to Berchtesgaden so I headed towards Wien and took the West-Autobahn (A1) for a fast drive back.

15. November – Berchtesgaden to Garching bei München – 173 km

The weather this morning was the best since I arrived. Sunny, 12°C (of course that was at 1000 m.  When I got down to 500m, it was .5 ° C).  I didn’t want to leave the InterContinental (in addition to the view, I was becoming especially attached to the electronically-controlled, gas Kamin (fireplace) in the room), but it’s a good thing I did.  Two days later, Germany was hit with heavy winter storms and, although my car has xDrive, it also is equipped with high-performance summer tires.

My final drive for this trip would take me to the offices of E.H. Harms in Garching (bei München).  A ritual I’ve followed many times before. Condition report; power of attorney form, remove front license plate (I had already removed the first aid kit and warning triangle and shipped these with other sundry items from the hotel), and hand over one key.

Rolf Raffelsieper (see resources), who worked at BMW since 1967 before retiring, was happy to pick me up at E.H. Harms and drive me to the airport in a new 745d.

Before I knew it, I was on board Lufthansa flight 410 to New York.  I logged into FlyNet, for on board Internet access.  The adventure was over, but I had a lot of e-mails and pictures to send from 11,000 m aloft.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

The author's brand new BMW 330xi was followed by a red BMW 3er across the Brenerpaß.

as far as Sferzing, and looping back to Berchtesgaden), I passed by the front desk just in time to hear another guest complaining about problems with Net connectivity.  He was quite upset (apparently, his room had no connectivity) and was simultaneously speaking with one of the hotel managers and someone on a customer service line.  His complaint: had he known he would not have Internet access, he would have stayed elsewhere.  Apparently, I was lucky to be in the Confetti Suite.

As Net access in hotels becomes as ubiquitous as television, hotels (such as the one I was staying in) catering to business travellers need to ensure a more seamless experience.  Almost all hotels work with third-party providers; unfortunately, when that partner becomes unreliable, the hotel guest sees only the hotel brand and such unreliability tarnishes that brand.  Unhappy guests seldom return, regardless of who was at fault.

Friday, November 11, 2005, Berchtesgaden, Germany

View at 1000 m - from the InterContinental Hotel and Resort, Berchtesgaden

630 kilometers later and at an altitude of 950 m, I found myself comfortably ensconced in a suite at the recently-opened InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden.  No Confetti Suite here; I was online within minutes.  The biggest problem I had was finding an electrical outlet for the computer (the outlets were concealed behind a wood panel).  Berchtesgaden was to be my base for the remainder of my trip.

During the balance of my stay, I visited Dürnstein (the town where Richard the Lionhearted was held captive), Lienz, Kitzbühel, and Sopron (Hungary) – in all, driving 2426 km.

Tuesday, November 15, 2005, Munich, Germany
I drove ca. 175 km to the town of Garching, outside of Munich, to turn the car over to the shipping agent, E.H. Harms.  From Garching, it was a 15-minute ride to Munich’s ultra-modern Franz Josef Strauss Airport.  As mentioned last week, I had been looking forward to trying Lufthansa’s FlyNet onboard Internet service, but on the trip over, the service was unfortunately kaput.  I was pressing my thumbs together (German/Austrian equivalent of “fingers crossed”) for good luck for the flight home.

Tuesday, November 15, 2005, 11,000 m over Europe
As soon as we reached cruising altitude, my computer detected Wi-Fi and I logged into FlyNet.  Seat power outlets are conveniently located and I had a choice of U.S. or the European Schuko connection systems.  I started off with simple chores, such as checking the news (I decided NOT to grab a handful of newspapers as I boarded, opting – hoping – to see the more current online versions).

With Lotus Notes replicating my mail and other databases in the background, I started receiving Sametime instant messages from colleagues.  Briefly put, my initial experience (discounting last week’s flight) with FlyNet was very positive.  Granted, it was relatively slow (I did several speed tests and it was marginally faster than GPRS) but we WERE, after all, at 11,000 m cruising along at 860 km/h.

After reading some e-mail, I called home using Skype (quality was decent), checked my voicemail, upgraded iTunes, did some online banking – in short, nothing extraordinary, absent the venue.

The author, connected to the Net at 30,000 feet via Connexion by Boeing

My neighbor in seat 3J, Frau Frowein, lives in Munich and was visiting New York for the first time.  She had some questions for me about things to do, so I suggested we look online at some information about events for the upcoming week in New York – another good use for FlyNet.  I also recommended a concert at Carnegie Hall, so we looked at the program and she and I booked a ticket for her for a concert with Hilary Hahn.  We also e-mailed her daughter (Frau Frowein had never used e-mail before).

About 3 hours into the flight, I briefly lost the connection but the service was flawless from that point forward.

Last Tuesday’s flight took place entirely during business hours in the United States.  We departed at 15:15 local time, which is 09:15 in New York.  We landed at 18:25 New York time.  This represents an entire day – and given the pace at which the knowledge economy moves – missing one day is more than many can afford.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.