The St. Regis hotel itself seems to channel art, and what comes out of ame’s kitchen and wine cellar would qualify as art as well.  The unique use of materials on floors and walls was elegant and understated; the sculpture-like undulating walnut wall was itself a work of art.

While everything from the Tempura Poke (Seaweed, Hawaiian Sea Salt and Green Onions) to the Lightly Smoked Tasmanian Ocean Trout (served with Avocado Mousse, Jicama Salad and Preserved Lemon Pistachio Salsa) all sounded wonderful, it was the Grilled Breast of Liberty Farm Duck  (served with Forest Mushroom Foie Gras Bread Pudding and Sour Cherry Duck Sauce) that won my heart.

Ame’s wine list had an extensive selection of Austrian wines, all of which I knew quite well, so I resisted the temptation to go in that direction and, instead, asked the wine director (the restaurant eschews the title “sommelier”) to select some of his favorite wines for me.

(The Austrians on the list include two Bruts from Schloß Gobelsburg in Langenlois, multiple Grüner Veltliners including one from Nigl in the Kremstal, six Rieslings, a Sauvignon Blanc from F.X. Pichler in the Wachau, and my all-time favorite dessert wine, Ruster Ausbruch from the amazing Heidi Schröck in the Burgenland.)

We started with the Tosca Vermentino 2009, a wonderful Tuscan wine with crisp acidity and a long finish.  I then tried the Abraxas Los Carneros 2009 vin de terroir, from Robert Sinskey Vineyards in Sonoma.  The Abraxas is a wonderful Alsatian varietal blend (47% Pinot Noir, 23% Riesling, 17% Gewürztraminer, and 13% Pinot Blanc), vibrant and fresh with an additional richness in the mouth.  Next came a spectacular 2008 Spätburgunder Weißherbst from Weingut Robert Weil in the Rheingau.

The duck was served and we tried two more wines, a McIntyre 2007 Estate Pinot Noir and a magnificent Nebbiolo from the Moccagatta in the Langhe.  I didn’t find the McIntyre to my liking but the Nebbiolo was incredible.

Typically a Nebbiolo requires aging to balance the tannins with other characteristics, but trying this was a wonderful education as it was perfectly balanced.  I can say the same for my meal at ame.

ame
689 Mission Street
San Francisco, CA 94105-4126
(415) 284-4040

http://www.amerestaurant.com/

There is ample reason to go to Seasonal for the food alone but diners should be aware of the unparalleled cellar of Austrian and German wines that co-owners Wolfgang Ban and Eduard Frauneder, who studied together at the Gastgewerbefachschule (Vienna Culinary Institute), have assembled.

Vienna not only has its own cuisine but it’s the only major world capital with a wine-growing district within its borders.  While the city’s name is practically synonymous for music and culture, Austrian wines remain relatively unknown.  Austria has 51,213 hectares of vineyards and most of it is consumed domestically.  The sheer diversity found in Austrian wines (only 36% of production is Grüner Veltliner) means that one can pair them with almost anything.

At Seasonal, these wines pair best with the modern Austrian cuisine that comes out of the Seasonal kitchen, presided over by the co-owners.

My first meal at Seasonal started with Schlutzkrapfen, delightfully light ravioli stuffed with a tangy goat cheese and dressed with a Champagne foam.

My dining partner ordered the Wiener Schnitzel, which arrived in a puffy, perfectly golden-brown crust accompanied by cucumber salad, potatoes, and lingonberry sauce.  The veal cutlet was as authentic as anything made in my grandmother’s kitchen in Vienna and just as light and airy.

My Kaisergulasch was prepared with tender, braised veal cheeks, a much tastier and more tender cut than the usual.  The paprika-based goulash sauce had just the right amount of paprika and other spices, perfect for the accompanying Spätzel.

For dessert, we had the Kaiserschmarrn (literally, the “emperor’s nonsense”), sliced baked pancakes served with raisins, apple compote, and powdered sugar.

The long bar with comfortable white leather seating in the middle of the room, not to mention the wine list, which lists Austrian wines by region [Burgenland, Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), Steiermark (Styria), and Wien (Vienna)], reminds one that this is a serious Weinbar.

A subsequent visit focused on ten wines that Messrs. Ban and Frauneder felt were most representative of their wine list’s variety.

We started with the Von Buhl Riesling Brut 2003, the only German wine in our tasting.  A nice alternative to Champagne or prosecco, the elegant Von Buhl was minerally with a dry finish.

The Neumayer Engelberg Grüner Veltliner 2008, is from the Traisenthal, an area where archaeologists have found evidence of grapevine growing over 4000 years ago. Neumayer’s wines are influenced by the Traisenthal’s unique climate and the 2008 Engelberg is a light-bodied and balanced wine with wonderful aromas.

The Liegenfeld Leithaberg Grüner Veltliner 2007, from the Burgenland (the easternmost province in Austria), is best served at 10° C (50° F).   Liegenfeld is in Donnerskirchen, where the south-facing slopes of the Leithagebirge are rich in mica schist and chalk, ideal for producing minerally wines with a warmer aftertaste such as this.

The Graf Hardegg 2008 Riesling vom Schloß was from the Weinviertel wine region in Niederösterreich.  Only 75 kilometers from Vienna, the Hardegg estate makes wine by completely natural means and with no modern oenological intervention.  The Riesling vom Schloß was very fresh with a fruity apricot and peach taste and a long finish.

The Sommer Riesling Bergweingarten 2008, from Donnerskirchen, had more of a yeasty taste with citrus and apple.  It was one of our favorites.

The Gaisberg Riesling 2003 from the Kamptal was fruity with a much richer and fuller body.  It was definitely the best Riesling of the bunch.

The Michlits Pinot Noir 2007 was a competent Pinot, compared to all of the other wines we tasted, but despite a supple finish paled in comparison.

The Umathum Zweigelt Classic 2007 from the Burgenland starts with an initial sweat/leather nose with a more earthy finish.  It was an acquired taste but one we liked.

The Weninger Blaufränkisch Hochäcker 2006 is one of the finest examples of this medium-bodied varietal and has a typical fine Blaufränkisch nose, with well recognizable fruits such as cherry and plum.  The Hochäcker was rich with juicy acidity and crisp tannins.  Since tasting it, it has become one of my favorite red wines.

The Hafner Frizzante Muscat was an excellent way to conclude our tasting.  Produced in the sunny hills of the Neusiedlersee in the Burgenland, this lightly-sparkling wine was characterized by floral aromas with peach and citrus flavors.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.  Shannon McClatchey, Managing Editor of Executive Road Warrior, contributed to this review.

Spending summer and winter in Vienna, one notices an entirely different, but equally vibrant, energy.  I’ve been spending time each year in Vienna since my youth.  In 2008, I was in Vienna for a week in June during the Euro 2008 football championship.  At the beginning of last year I returned to attend the annual New Year’s Concert by the Wiener Philharmoniker (Vienna Philharmonic), broadcast to 1.2 billion people each New Year’s Day.

In late summer, I returned to the city to visit its vineyards (Vienna is the only capital city with a significant wine-growing region (ca. 700 hectares) within its borders).

Regardless of when you decide to go to Vienna, there is much to do and see.

What to do in either season

There is so much to see and do in Vienna that the business traveler might want to consider a cultural guide for a few hours. Even though I know the city inside out, I don’t know the ins and outs of many of the museums, so I used the services of Diane Naar (+43 664 3431588 or delphee@aon.at) and saw more of the Kunsthistorisches Museum (filled with one of the world’s largest and most important collections of Old Masters, as assembled by the Habsburg rulers, including Rubens, Brueghel, Titian) in two hours than I could have covered on my own in two days.

Here are a few basic things to do:

1.) Take the Vienna Ring Tram that runs around the entire Ringstraße (as of April 2009) to get a feel for the city.  Buy a Vienna Card at your hotel to get 72 hours of unlimited public transportation within the city plus discounts at many museums.

2.) Go to the Naschmarkt to nosh or dine.  The possibilities are endless but Umar Fisch is one of my favorites.  On Saturdays, you’ll find a flea market starting at the Kettenbrückengasse, but go early (as you would to any flea market) for the best finds and to avoid crowds.

3.) Do as the Viennese do, sit at a café.  The varieties of Viennese coffee are endless and your waiter will bring your coffee with a glass of superb Viennese water.  (He’ll refill the glass of water without complaining while you sit and read newspapers for an hour or two).  My Stammcafé (regular café) is Café Prückel on the Stubenring. I’ve a regular there since I was very young and it doesn’t get any more authentic.  It is also, like many Vienna cafés, the perfect place for meetings.

4.) Haus der Musik may sound a bit boring but it’s one of the most modern, engaging, and high-tech museums I have visited.  One highlight is an exhibit where visitors can conduct a virtual Wiener Philharmoniker (or should I say, “try” to conduct).  In my case, boisterous members of the virtual ensemble told me that they would have been better off if they played without a conductor after I had a go with the baton).

The author conducts a virtual Wiener Philharmoniker at the Haus der Musik

5.) MuseumsQuartier, something very old and very very new.  In 2001, the Imperial stables and riding school were reinvented as a village of museums.  In addition to the Leopold Museum, with unmatched collections of Klimt and Schiele, works assembled by Austrian dentist Dr. Rudolf Leopold, you’ll find the Kunsthalle, the Museum Moderner Kunst  and the Zoom Kinder Museum.

Summer

1.) Walk through Stadtpark, with its statues of Beethoven, Mahler, Strauß, among others, and then continue through the winding streets of the Innere Stadt, the First District that was until the mid 19^th century surrounded by Vienna’s city walls.

2.) Go to a concert at the Kursalon.  Johann Strauß (both father and son) conducted there.

3.) Visit Schönbrunn, the summer imperial palace built by Empress Maria Theresia, for its gardens.  Walk up to the Gloriette (there is a little train available to take you up as well) and admire the view of both Schönbrunn and the city center in the distance.  Note that some of the flowers are arranged in the red-white-red of the Austrian flag.

4.) The Wienerwald, the Vienna Woods, gave inspiration to Beethoven (the “Pastoral” symphony), Johann Strauß (son) wrote his “Tales from the Vienna Woods” in three-quarter time, and they inspired several of Schubert’s songs.  In Mayerling in 1899, Crown Prince Rudolf shot his mistress and then himself.  Today, the Vienna Woods are easily reachable by tram (the name the Viennese give their streetcars).  Stop at a Heuriger (wine tavern) in Grinzing, and continue to the Kahlenberg or the Leopoldsberg (both mountains are within the borders of the city). You can hike from Grinzing to Kahlenberg in just an hour.  Or go to the Cobenzl, a ledge of the Kahlenberg where, in his own words, “the secret of dreams was revealed to Dr. Sigmund Freud” during his stays at the Belle Vue Hotel (no longer in existence).

Winter

1.) Go to a concert at the Musikverein, one of the world’s greatest concert halls, at Bösendorferstraße 12 behind the Hotel Imperial (if you are lucky, the Wiener Philharmoniker will be in town). Vienna is also known for the imposing Opera house on the Opernring (where else?). For lighter fare, try the Volksoper, where recent productions included My Fair Lady and operettas such as The Merry Widow.

2.) Go to a Christkindlmarkt (Christmas market) from late November through Christmas.  There are several in the city, including one at the Rathaus (city hall) and another at Schloß Schönbrunn.

3.) Take a ride in a Fiaker, a horse-drawn carriage, starting at the Hofburg (Imperial Palace).  Dress warmly; but the driver will provide blankets.  Consider bringing liquid warmth as well.

4.)  Attend the New Year’s Concert (Neujahrskonzert) in 2011. 60,000 people vie for the 3000 tickets available for what are actually three concerts.  The dress rehearsal takes place on the December 30th, followed by the New Year’s Eve concert.  The big event takes place the morning of January 1st.  You can register for the drawing for tickets to the 2011 concert here.

Viennese specialties to try

Wine – In addition to its own wines, Vienna is near several large wine producing regions, including the Wachau region in Lower Austria (Niederösterreich), and the Burgenland.  Try a Grüner Veltliner (white) or Zweigelt (red).

Desserts – Salzburger Nockerl is a vanilla dessert soufflé, so heavenly it inspired at least one song.  Sacher Torte is a chocolate cake so important to the city that a lawsuit dragged out over 50 years about rights to the name.  Powiderltascherl are pockets of sweetened potato dough filled with plum jam and covered with roasted breadcrumbs.  Marillenknödel are curd cheese dumplings filled with apricot, covered in breadcrumbs and roasted in butter.  Palatschinken are crèpes (thicker than the French variety) filled with Marmalade, curd cheese, chocolate, or nuts.

Main course – Wiener Schnitzel, made with veal, should cover the plate and you should be able to cut through it like butter.  Wiener Zwiebel Rostbraten is steak smothered in onions.  For lighter fare, try a pair of Frankfurter wurst (sausage), which, in a strange twist, Germans call Wiener.  A bowl of Frittatensuppe (broth with sliced up Palatschinken) or Grießnockerlsuppe (with little dumplings) is quite satisfying.  Although technically a dessert, Kaiserschmarrn, literally the Emperor’s Nonsense, are thick pancakes shredded and sprinkled with raisins and sugar, served with plum kompott, is a marvelous main course as well.

Bier – Gösser and Stiegl are my favorites and you’ll probably want to find a source for them when you get home (same goes for the Austrian wines, I should add).  It is increasingly easy to find a selection of Austrian beer and wine in the States both at restaurants and in shops.

Kaffee – In the 1300+ cafés in Vienna, all coffee in Vienna is served with a small glass of Viennese water on the same tray.  Großer and Kleiner Schwarzer or Mokka, large or small espresso black.  Großer and Kleiner Brauner, the same but served with milk, by custom in a tiny jug on the tray. Wiener Melange, half espresso, half hot frothy milk.  A Fiaker, black coffee with rum, named after Vienna’s famous horse-drawn carriages.  A Kapuziner is a small Mokka with a few drops of whipped cream, making the coffee the color of a Capuchin monk’s robe. An Eiskaffee is cold coffee with ice cream and whipped cream served in a tall glass, perfect for a hot summer day.

How to get there

You can connect via Austrian Airlines from almost every major city in Europe and the airline has direct flights from New York and Washington to Vienna.  Upon arrival, “fly the CAT,” the City Air Train, into the city center (Landstraße) in 16 minutes.  Roundtrip fare is  €16.  And keep your boarding pass as it’s good for free or reduced admission or other benefits at museums and shops around the world.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

On Christmas Day it had started to snow in the late afternoon and the restaurant’s softly lighted interior seemed all the more inviting, the quiet elegance of the place adding a festive note to the visit.

The atmosphere reflects the passion of Chef Ulrich Heimann, the modest chef of Le Ciel.  Heimann is a perfectionist and a believer in herbs, vegetables, and fruit straight from the garden and the use of seasonal ingredients.  He has assembled a mélange of local suppliers, a farm in the Salzkammergut for beef, a nearby butcher for veal, hunters and fisherman for their bounty.  Heimann often takes hotel guests and diners on hikes, showing where the herbs are grown or the trout are farmed.

Upon being seated at a corner table with a view of the entire room and the floor-to-ceiling windows, I was immediately offered a glass of Champagne and an amuse-bouche, three actually, a croissant  of chorizo and tomato, two kinds of Gänsestopfleber (foie gras), and a skewered piece of Ente (duck) in a Pankomantel (panko breading).

But there was another amuse-bouche, Konfierter Kalbeljau with Kräutersalat (confit of codfish with herbal salad) before the meal would actually start.  A bit salty for my taste but very flavorful.

And then there was the bread, three types, all perfectly warmed, served with two types of butter (salted and unsalted), oil, two salts, and a carrot purée (my personal favorite).

“Now we start” (“Jetzt starten wir”) the waiter said before bringing the first course, Lauwarmer (lukewarm) Eismeerforelle (Arctic Trout) carpaccio with chive oil.

I started with a crisp and elegant 2008 Steirische Klassik Sauvignon Blanc from the Weingut Neumeister in Steiermark with a wonderful, fruity aroma that was perfect for the multiple amuse-bouche mini-courses as well as the trout.

Next came the Artischockenschaumsuppe (cream of artichoke soup) with black truffles, one of the highlights of the evening. Each spoonful was a cloud of delicious, contrasting flavors and aromas.

The Tranche (slice) of Schwertfisch (swordfish) – served 90 minutes after having been seated, just to provide an idea of the gentle pace the meal was taking – was tasty although a bit chewy.  I would have preferred it without the bok choy but the tasty yellow radishes that accompanied it made up for it.

To accompany it, I switched to a 2007 Mantlerhof Weitgasse Grüner Veltliner.  The fresh and delicate flavor of the wine nicely paired to the swordfish as well as the dishes that were to follow.

Before continuing with the next course, a pleasant and not-too-sweet cassis sorbet was offered.

Next came the Vierländer-Ente, a duck raised in the Vierlande region on the Elbe River in southeast Hamburg.  The first piece of duck was superb although a bit dry in the center.  The Knuspercannelloni (crispy cannellonis) were a surprising but perfect accompaniment.  The second piece of duck, however, was inedible due to the presence of  gristle.  The server noticed a problem, swept the dish away, and returned (despite my protestations that I didn’t need or have room for a replacement course) with a superbly cooked piece of steak with herb sauce.  Needless to say, while I took a few bites, I did not manage to finish this extra course.

At two hours and 30 minutes, I declined the fruit and cheese course and was served the final official course, a magnificent piña colada-cream and pineapple granitée.

This wasn’t quite the end, however.  Shortly after I managed to finish my dessert, the waiter pulled up with a trolley that was covered with pralines, truffles, cookies, cakes, and pastries, all of which I had to decline.

Three hours after the meal had started, it was time to leave Le Ciel.

As I left, the chef bade departing diners farewell at the door, giving each a small gift of pâté in a jar, just in case we were to become hungry in the elevator ride back to our rooms.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

Tradition is everywhere, from the Kaffeehaus (coffee house) to ubiquitous paintings and photographs of Kaiser Franz Joseph I., the Habsburg emperor who ruled the Austro-Hungarian Empire from 1848 to 1916.

Vienna is one of the only cities in the world with its own cuisine (most cuisines are regional- or country-specific) and it’s not just Sacher Torte and Strudel.  Rather, it is built upon the culinary traditions of the many outposts of the Empire.  From Hungary came imaginative tortes and gulyás  (which became Gulasch, or goulash, even though gulyás in Hungary is a soup), from Milan, the breaded veal cutlet which became Wiener Schnitzel, from Bohemia, hearty dumplings and savory meats—in Vienna, all this and more was mixed together, improved upon, and reborn as Wiener Küche (Viennese cuisine)

Indeed what many refer to as Danish is said to have originated in Vienna [the Danes call it wienerbrød (Viennese bread)] and the croissant is thought to have been created by Viennese bakers to celebrate the defeat of the Turks in the Siege of Vienna (the French consider the croissant to be in the Viennoiserie family).  Despite the battle, the Viennese remain grateful to the Turks for having introduced coffee to the city, thereby starting the Kaffeehaus (coffee house or café) tradition that remains a big part of daily life in the city.

Vienna is also the only capital city in the world with a significant wine-growing region (ca. 700 hectares) within its borders.  The city’s wines are best sampled in a Heuriger, a tavern offering wine from the last harvest (the word “Heurig” literally means “this year’s”) which can be found in outlying districts of the city such as Grinzing and Nußdorf.  There locals and visitors enjoy a glass of locally-produced Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, or Zweigelt with light food and snacks.

For decades if not centuries, the fine dining scene in Vienna focused on formal, dark restaurants such as the Drei Husaren and those found in the Hotel Sacher and Hotel Imperial.   Today, however, a new generation of restauranteurs is challenging that tradition with casual restaurants such as Österreicher im MAK and Steirereck Meierei.  Beyond the nobel (luxury, literally “fancy”) restaurants are the bürgerliche (bourgeois or somewhat middle-class), and the Beisl (tavern or pub).

Join me on a culinary tour of Vienna as we sample the old alongside the new, the nobel, the bürgerliche, and the Beisl.

MEIEREI (STEIRERECK)

A walk through the Stadtpark past the tourists and the golden statue of waltz king Johann Strauß II playing the violin brings us to the Meierei, run by the Reitbauer family, which also owns the adjoining and far more formal Restaurant Steirereck, with which it shares a kitchen and menu items.  The word “Meierei” means a dairy farm and a milk theme runs deep throughout the restaurant, with milky white walls, glass milk bottles on the tables, and green floors.  Cheese looms large on the menu, with 120 varieties from 13 countries, many local.

Our meal began with the Hochzeitssuppe, or “wedding soup,” clear beef bouillon poured over four superb bites: a large Grießnockerl (semolina dumpling), a stuffed wonton, a crispy piece of Milzschnitte (lung strudel), and a small biscuit.

To accompany this, we were served a glass of Der Schrammler – Grande Reserve 2006, a wonderful gemischter Satz or field-blend wine made from Grüner Veltliner Nußberg and Rosengartl Alte Reben.  This wine was created by Viennese winemaker Fritz Wieninger working with Adi Schmid, the Steirereck’s sommelier, and named after the Philharmonia Schrammeln, a group of musicians from the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra.

The meal continued with Reinanke, a white fish native to Austria.  The Reinanke, served with piquant cabbage slaw and lemon balm, melted in my mouth.  The accompanying dumpling was light and fluffy.

We concluded the meal with scrumptious Zwetschkenknödel, plum-stuffed dumplings with plum ice cream.

Meierei
Am Heumarkt 2A / im Stadtpark, 1030 Vienna
+43 1 713-3168.
www.steirereck.at

THE HEURIGER

Heuriger is the Austrian word for both the wines of the latest harvest as well as the place that they are served.  The tradition of the Heuriger dates back to 1784 when Kaiser Josef II. (1741-1790) allowed wine producers to sell their own wines as well as food in their gardens without having to pay for a restaurant license.  The Kaiser’s edit required that a Heuriger offer a limited selection of food, typically cold meats, cheeses, and cheese spreads such as Liptauer, so as not to compete with restaurants and also stated that a Heuriger can only be open for a limited amount of time each year.  To indicate that a Heuriger is open, its owners hang Buschen, or pine branches, over the entrance (this is why a Heuriger is called a Buschenschank in some areas of Austria).

Weingut am Reisenberg

Weingut am Reisenberg is a Heuriger located in the hills of Grinzing (19. Bezirk or District) of Vienna.  It’s a good 10-minute walk up a steep hill but it’s worth it: the view of the city off in the distance, past the vineyards, is stunning, especially as dusk approaches.

The wines at Weingut am Reisenberg are average for the region but the panoramic view do seem to enhance every sip.   In true Heuriger fashion, dinner is a buffet; the buffet the evening I was there, it consisted of typical Austrian specialties including Wiener Schnitzel, Tafelspitz [boiled beef, sliced and typically served with creamed spinach, Rösti (fried potatoes), apple-horseradish sauce, and chive sauce], Spätzle (small egg dumplings), and, for dessert, Kaiserschmarrn.

Kaiserschmarrn is a pancake dish first prepared for Kaiser Franz Joseph I. (1830-1916) and roughly can be translated into the “emperor’s nonsense” or the “emperor’s mishmash.”  The pancake is cut into pieces while frying, shredded, and sprinkled with powdered sugar.  It is typically served hot with apple or plum compote.

Weingut am Reisenberg
Oberer Reisenbergweg 15, 1190 Wien
+43 (1) 320 93 93
www.weingutamreisenberg.at

Heuriger Christ

Winemaker Rainer Christ is a member of the WienWein group, which was founded in 2006 by leading Viennese vintners including Christ, Michael Edlmoser, Fritz Wieninger, and Richard Zahel.   Their wines are among the finest from the Viennese growers and a visit to Heuriger Christ affords an opportunity to sample recent vintages.   Christ’s 2008 Grüner Veltliner Bruch, 2008 Bisamberg Alte Reben (a gemischter Satz), and the 2007 Mephisto are worthy of note.

Weingut & Heuriger Christ
Amtsstraße 10-14, 1210 Wien – Jedlersdorf
+43 1 292 51 52
www.weingut-christ.at

KULINARIUM 7

It’s rare that I write a review that warns readers to studiously avoid a hotel or restaurant but alas, this is one and it proves that the most beautiful and elegant settings can do little to make up for a surly host, glacier-slow service, and so-so food.  In fact, the most interesting thing we were served was a refreshing towelette, the size of a mint, that unfurled into a washcloth when water was applied.

A restaurant that expects its diners to sit for meals that are dragged out over many hours should at least provide chairs that have good back support—or any back support for that matter.  At the Kulinarium, function follows form with backless stools that ultimately resulted in my making an “early” departure (three hours after arriving, I should add) before the main course arrived.

The appetizer of foie gras fried with garam masala, caramelized chicory, and mango sounded more interesting than it was, although it was nicely paired with a superb Riesling Auslese 2006, from Salomon Undhof in the Kremstal.

The Kürbiscremesuppe (cream of pumpkin soup) with candied ginger and linseed oil, paired with a Morillon Kranachberg 2007 from Peter Skoff in Südsteiermark (South Styria) was ok but paled in comparison with other pumpkin soups I had recently tried.

A tasty piece of fried cauliflower, served with avocado and citrus fruits, was marred by the accompanying rubbery scallop.  It was paired with a wonderful Grüner Veltliner “Goliath” 2006, from Birgit Eichinger in the Kamptal.

After waiting over 45 minutes for the main course after the cauliflower, I decided that I could sit no longer and took the Tram (local term for Straßenbahn or streetcar) back into the city center.  The hard wooden streetcar seats soothed my aching back.

Kulinarium 7
Sigmundgasse 1/1, 1070 Vienna
+43 1 522 33 77
www.kulinarium7.at

ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL

Zum Schwarzen Kameel is a Viennese institution, tracing its origins back to 1618 and its current location and well-preserved Jugendstil interior to 1901.  Beethoven was a regular patron; somewhere in the restaurant’s archives there are hand-written notes by the deaf composer with his lunch orders.  A combination delicatessen, sandwich shop, and white-cloth restaurant, Zum Schwarzen Kameel offers an enticing Heimkehrmenü, or homecoming menu, intended for Viennese who have been away and are now returning home.  It also serves as a wonderful tutorial for non-Viennese who want the best of what Wiener Küche has to offer.

The Heimkehrmenü meal starts with hand-cut ham with shaved horseradish, and continues with Kalbsgulasch (veal goulash) with Spätzle, Wiener Schnitzel, and for dessert, Marillenpalatschinken (apricot Palatschinken, a rolled-up crêpe-like eggy pancake).  The waiter said there was another possible main course after the Wiener Schnitzel, presumably for those who had not only been away from Vienna for a while but who had not eaten during their absence, but I declined.

A Sauvignon Blanc Rothüttl 2008 from the Weingut Gross in Südsteiermark (South Styria) was the perfect accompaniment.

Up front, in the sandwich area, Zum Schwarzen Kameel offers dozens of small and inexpensive sandwiches, ranging from salmon to salami to Liptauer cheese (made from a soft cheese such as cottage cheese, cream cheese, quark cheese, and spices such as paprika, caraway seeds, and fresh parsley).

Zum Schwarzen Kameel
Bognergasse 5, 1010 Vienna
+43 1 533 81 25
www.kameel.at

ÖSTERREICHER IM MAK

With a few exceptions (Café Sabarsky at the Neue Galerie in New York comes to mind), museum restaurants are hardly destinations unto themselves.  But then again, most museum restaurants don’t have star chef Helmut Österreicher as the owner.  Österreicher, who made his name as chef at the Restaurant Steirereck, has created a menu that offers both classic and (to use his words) “newly-interpreted” Viennese cuisine at the Museum für angewandte Kunst (MAK, or Museum for Applied Art).

Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner, but there always seems to be room at Österreicher im MAK for those who have come to admire the MAK’s collection of Wiener Werkstätte furniture, glass, china, and silver, and textiles.

The indoor dining rooms were quiet the day I visited; given the beautiful, late summer weather, the place to dine was outdoors in the museum’s courtyard.

Our meal started off with a Kürbiscremesuppe, cream of pumpkin soup with pumpkin seed oil, which had just the right texture and flavor to make it the best pumpkin soup I could recall having.  That was followed by an exceptionally tender Wiener Zwiebelrostbraten, Viennese minute steak with onions, accompanied by home fries.  Not surprisingly, this was the best Zwiebelrostbraten I could recall having in the past few years.

Our server recommended the Franz 2006 from Weingut Weninger in the Mittelburgenland (Middle Burgenland), a full-bodied cuvee that is made from Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Blaufränkisch that perfectly matched the Zwiebelrostbraten.

The Mehlspeisen (Austrian for dessert, literally “flour food”) I selected from the Moderne side of the menu was a magnificent and airy gebackenen Topfen mit Hollerkoch (baked curd cheese with elderberry preserves).

Don’t let the modern look fool you: Österreicher im MAK is strong on tradition where it counts.  The beverage selection is drawn solely from Austrian wines and spirits and the servers seem quite knowledgeable about them, and the kitchen draws heavily from local producers.  Just remember, Klassiche (classic) Wiener Küche on the left and modern interpretations on the right.

Österreicher im MAK
Stubenring 5, 1010 Vienna
+1 43 1 714 0121
www.oesterreicherimmak.at

RESTAURANT ROTE BAR IM HOTEL SACHER

Walking into the Hotel Sacher, built in 1876 and situated around the corner from the Staatsoper (State Opera) is like walking into fin-de-siècle Vienna, where Franz Joseph I. is still Kaiser (and König, king, of Hungary) and red velvet, grand crystal chandeliers, and polite service are the rule, not the exception.  The Sacher may best be known not as a hotel but rather for the Sacher-Torte, created by the young apprentice baker Franz Sacher for a dinner to be given by Prince Metternich (1773-1859) in 1832.  His son, Eduard (1843-1892), opened the Hotel Sacher in 1876; after his death, his widow, Anna Sacher, transformed the hotel into one of the finest in the world.

Seated for a late meal under a portrait of Kaiser Franz Joseph after attending a performance of Il barbiere di Siviglia, the Barber of Seville, I started with the soup,

Kräftige Tafelspitzsuppe mit Wiener Einlage (strong consommé with a choice of Viennese inserts; the inserts were Milzschnitte (lung strudel), Frittaten (sliced palatschinken or pancakes, Leberknödel (liver dumping) oder Grießnockerl (semolina dumpling). I recommend the Leberknödel and Frittaten (ask for both).

While the restaurant’s Tafelspitz is far from the city’s best, it was served with delicious creamed spinach and magnificent hash-brown potatoes, and a choice of chive cream sauce or apple horseradish.   Tafelspitz was a favorite of Kaiser Franz Joseph, who was watching over me as I ate, and he would have immediately recognized this version.

A sweet end to this late night supper was the Dessertkreation “Franz Sacher”, a medley of fresh strawberries, Apfelstrudel (apple strudel), a fruit tart, and of course a slice of Sacher-Torte mit Schlagobers (with whipped cream).  This was accompanied by a superb 2006 Beerenauslese from Martin Pasler in the Neusiedlersee (Burgenland) region.  This full-bodied, sweet wine is made from rich, ripe grapes affected by noble rot or botrytis and was an excellent way to conclude the evening.

Restaurant Rote Bar im Hotel Sacher
Philharmonikerstraße 4 A , 1010 Vienna
+43 1 51 45 68 41
www.sacher.com/en-red-bar.htm

For complete details of almost every course of every meal, watch the slide show.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

First order of business: top down. The top takes only 20 seconds to retract and it appears far more robust than earlier generation retractable hardtops, which seemed a bit fragile in construction. The interior features generous amounts of space; even with the top up, I never felt claustrophobic. With the top down, which is the way this car is meant to be driven, the cabin isn’t overly noisy or draft; with the top up, you would never know you were in a convertible.

The Z4 comes with a choice of two engines in the U.S., the naturally-aspirated 3.0-liter inline-six with 190 kW/258 hp at 6,600 rpm and 310 Nm/228 pound-feet of torque at 2,570, and the twin-turbo 3.0-liter inline-six with 225 kW/306 hp at 5,800 rpm and 400 Nm/295 pound-feet from 1,300-5,000 rpm. The NA engine does 0-100 km/h in 5.8 seconds; the twin-turbo does it in 5.2. My Z4 had a third power plant, offered in many European markets, a 2.5-liter inline six that produces 150 kW/204 hp at 6,200 rpm and 250 Nm/184 pound-feet of torque at 2,950 rpm, with 0-100 km/h in 6.6 seconds (manual transmission).

The new Z4 also comes with a rather cumbersome badge. The twin-turbo is designated the BMW Z4 sDrive35i. Similarly, the NA version is the BMW Z4 sDrive30i, and the smaller power plant is (somewhat inexplicably) the BMW Z4 sDrive23i.

With perfect 50/50 weight distribution and extraordinarily comfortable seats, I found the Z4 to be ready for everything from leisurely touring to high-speed cornering. The car went exactly where I pointed it and didn’t allow rough road surfaces to intrude.

Once on the Schnellstraße, I drove directly to the Zentralfriedhof, IV. Tor (Central Cemetery, 4th Gate) to visit my great grandparents.

After a short stay, I drove into the city to the Steirereck Meierei Restaurant in the Stadtpark (literally, city park) in the city center for lunch (review to come!). I hadn’t yet checked into the hotel so a quick drive down the Ringstraße led me to the recently opened Hotel Herrenhof, on the Herrengasse in the First District (1. Bezirk).

Next I was off to a walk in the Viennese vineyards with Fritz Wieninger (Stammersdorf), Rainer Christ (Jedlersdorf), and Richard Zahel (Mauer), some of the city’s leading winemakers. One of the topics they covered was the rising interest in Gemischter Satz, a field blend which means that grapes of different varieties (Grüner Veltliner, Traminer, among others) are planted, harvested and vinified together. This was a common practice many years ago but the Gemischter Satz wines weren’t appreciated for their fullness and rich body so the practice stopped and only recently is experiencing resurgence.

A tasting of some of their recent vintages followed.

Last, but not least, was dinner at the Kulinarium 7, a restaurant and wine shop.

Enjoy the show.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

The weather in early September is just about perfect, with daytime temperatures around 21° C, cooling down to a comfortable 14° C in the evening.  In other words, it’s the perfect weather to be driving a roadster.

BMW introduced its first roadster, the 315/1, in 1934 at the Berlin Motor Show.  The 315 featured a long engine compartment, a six-cylinder motor, two sports seats, and a speedometer that went up to 150 km/h.   The result? Instant Freude am Fahren (Joy of Driving, BMW’s tagline).

After selling 230 roadsters, BMW introduced the more powerful 319/1 variant with similar styling, selling 178.  The 328 Roadster followed in 1936, becoming one of the fastest cars on the road (with a top speed of 155 km/h).  Only 464 units were built until the Second World War necessitated an end of production.

The company’s next roadster, unveiled in New York in 1955, set the standard for roadsters of its era and beyond.  The timeless BMW 507, designed by Albrecht Graf von Götz, a German emigrant who settled in California in 1936, remains an icon of automotive design, later passing its mantle to the BMW Z1, the Z8, and finally the new Z4 Roadster.

The all-new Z4 is the first BMW roadster to sport a retractable hardtop roof (the 3er Series cabriolet has had one, however for several years now).  Its silhouette closely resembles the iconic 507, it is almost the same size and weight as the more recent and highly sought-after Z8, and it is far more elegant and sporty in appearance than its immediate Z4 and Z3 predecessors.

Prior to this trip, I had already driven two of the three Z4 variants, the Z4 sDrive35i and the Z4 sDrive30i, so I was very excited when I found out I would be driving a Z4 sDrive23i this time (n.b. this entry-level Z4 is not available in the U.S.).  It comes with a 201 hp 2.5-liter inline-six engine, which is more than enough power to get me from 0-100 km/h (0-62 mph) in about 6 seconds and I found myself easily hitting 140 km/h or higher without much effort.

With the top down, I didn’t even turn on the radio or my iPod – the mellifluous exhaust note was really I wanted to hear.

The car came in a beautiful tiefseeblau metallic (deep sea blue metallic) and it attracted a lot of attention whenever I parked.  Inside, the standard seats (which I find more comfortable in the Z4 than the sports seats) provide excellent support in cornering and seem perfect for multi-hour drives on Autobahnen as well.

Zwiebelrostbraten

So far, I’ve driven the Z4 from Vienna to Langenlois (link to prev article) in the Kamptal (Kamp Valley); today my driving was relatively local but even short drives become great fun when you get to push a button and the roof lowers into the trunk.  Trunk space is not great (I packed lightly for the trip) but the interior, even with the top up, is not at all cramped, unlike roadsters from other manufacturers including Mercedes-Benz.  Indeed, I continue to be amazed at how open and spacious the interior feels (a feeling that may be supported by the light interior colors that BMW favors for the Z4).

Niederösterreich is one of the most picturesque regions in the country and I will share more with you about the wine, architecture, and people as the trip progresses.  The regional cuisine pairs nicely with the exquisite Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, and Zweigelt wines and there will be much to report in the coming days.

UPDATE: Next is The Drive to Vienna

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

I departed New York on 4 September via Austrian Airlines, coincidentally on the first day of ownership of the airline by Lufthansa.  Fortunately, not much has changed and hopefully, as the Austrian newspapers have written, it will simply be “red uniforms without red ink.”

The first order of business was to pick up a BMW Z4 sDrive23 from BMW of Austria and drive to Langenlois, where the beautiful new wine and spa resort  Loisium Hotel beckoned.

After arrival and a pleasant 80 km drive, I checked in and then embarked on a tour of the Loisium Cellar World, a remarkable new museum that features 900 year-old wine cellars with state-of-the-art equipment.

The tour included a walk through some of the vineyards, an opportunity to taste some of the grapes used to make Grüner Veltliner, a theme-park-like introduction to the cellars, the tour itself, a visit to a winemaker’s home ca. 1924, and then a wine tasting.

Enjoy the slide show for the full effect.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.