The 2011 Executive Road Warrior calendar takes you on a tour of some of the most picturesque areas of Europe and the United States.

The year begins with Berchtesgaden, Germany, in January, Bruges, Belgium in February, Bolzano, Italy in March, Lipica, Slovenia in April, Dürnstein, Austria in May, Rust, Austria in June, Graz, Austria in July, Upper Bolzano, Italy in August, Bavaria in September, the Wachau region of Austria in October, Munich, Germany in November, and Schloß Nymphenburg in Germany in December.

The cover is Logan Circle and the Swann Fountain in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

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On Christmas Day it had started to snow in the late afternoon and the restaurant’s softly lighted interior seemed all the more inviting, the quiet elegance of the place adding a festive note to the visit.

The atmosphere reflects the passion of Chef Ulrich Heimann, the modest chef of Le Ciel.  Heimann is a perfectionist and a believer in herbs, vegetables, and fruit straight from the garden and the use of seasonal ingredients.  He has assembled a mélange of local suppliers, a farm in the Salzkammergut for beef, a nearby butcher for veal, hunters and fisherman for their bounty.  Heimann often takes hotel guests and diners on hikes, showing where the herbs are grown or the trout are farmed.

Upon being seated at a corner table with a view of the entire room and the floor-to-ceiling windows, I was immediately offered a glass of Champagne and an amuse-bouche, three actually, a croissant  of chorizo and tomato, two kinds of Gänsestopfleber (foie gras), and a skewered piece of Ente (duck) in a Pankomantel (panko breading).

But there was another amuse-bouche, Konfierter Kalbeljau with Kräutersalat (confit of codfish with herbal salad) before the meal would actually start.  A bit salty for my taste but very flavorful.

And then there was the bread, three types, all perfectly warmed, served with two types of butter (salted and unsalted), oil, two salts, and a carrot purée (my personal favorite).

“Now we start” (“Jetzt starten wir”) the waiter said before bringing the first course, Lauwarmer (lukewarm) Eismeerforelle (Arctic Trout) carpaccio with chive oil.

I started with a crisp and elegant 2008 Steirische Klassik Sauvignon Blanc from the Weingut Neumeister in Steiermark with a wonderful, fruity aroma that was perfect for the multiple amuse-bouche mini-courses as well as the trout.

Next came the Artischockenschaumsuppe (cream of artichoke soup) with black truffles, one of the highlights of the evening. Each spoonful was a cloud of delicious, contrasting flavors and aromas.

The Tranche (slice) of Schwertfisch (swordfish) – served 90 minutes after having been seated, just to provide an idea of the gentle pace the meal was taking – was tasty although a bit chewy.  I would have preferred it without the bok choy but the tasty yellow radishes that accompanied it made up for it.

To accompany it, I switched to a 2007 Mantlerhof Weitgasse Grüner Veltliner.  The fresh and delicate flavor of the wine nicely paired to the swordfish as well as the dishes that were to follow.

Before continuing with the next course, a pleasant and not-too-sweet cassis sorbet was offered.

Next came the Vierländer-Ente, a duck raised in the Vierlande region on the Elbe River in southeast Hamburg.  The first piece of duck was superb although a bit dry in the center.  The Knuspercannelloni (crispy cannellonis) were a surprising but perfect accompaniment.  The second piece of duck, however, was inedible due to the presence of  gristle.  The server noticed a problem, swept the dish away, and returned (despite my protestations that I didn’t need or have room for a replacement course) with a superbly cooked piece of steak with herb sauce.  Needless to say, while I took a few bites, I did not manage to finish this extra course.

At two hours and 30 minutes, I declined the fruit and cheese course and was served the final official course, a magnificent piña colada-cream and pineapple granitée.

This wasn’t quite the end, however.  Shortly after I managed to finish my dessert, the waiter pulled up with a trolley that was covered with pralines, truffles, cookies, cakes, and pastries, all of which I had to decline.

Three hours after the meal had started, it was time to leave Le Ciel.

As I left, the chef bade departing diners farewell at the door, giving each a small gift of pâté in a jar, just in case we were to become hungry in the elevator ride back to our rooms.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

In 5 days, I covered 2426 km and four countries (Austria, Germany, Hungary, and Italy). I crossed international borders 22 times.   I planned each day’s drive the night before, choosing my destination primarily based on the promise of good weather.

11. November – 460 km, Germany, Austria, and Italy

Friends Rich and Jill joined me for breakfast and soon enough, we were on the Autobahn in two 2006 3er Series BMWs.  Our itinerary: drive across the Brennerpaß into Italy and then head back north to Berchtesgaden.  I wonder if anyone noticed the consecutively numbered license plates on the two automobiles.

Destination: Berchtesgaden

We headed south in tandem on the A8, continuing on the A93 and then the A12 (Inntal-Autobahn) as it led to the Brenner-Autobahn (A13) and became the Autostrada del Brennero (A22)

Heading south was a good idea as it offered the best weather in the region. It turned out to be a beautiful, sunny day, with temperatures reaching 13°C.

Once we got to Sferzing (214 km later), it was time to change direction and head towards Berchtesgaden.  This involved retracing our steps until we reached the motorway intersection at Inntal, at which point we headed east on the A8 towards Salzburg.

I let the navigation system guide me the final kilometers to Berchtesgaden and the InterContinental Resort.  Given the fog, the late hour, and the fact that we were climbing to an altitude of 1000 m, I was able to enjoy the ride knowing that a little voice would tell me where to go.

Tired but exhilarated, I checked into the InterContinental. Even though it was dark, I could sense how incredible the view from my window would be.  I couldn’t wait until morning to actually see it.

View from the author's room at the InterContinental, Berchtesgaden

The view was incredible.  The InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden, built on the site of Field Marshal Hermann Göring’s house near the Berghof, is promoted as being “between heaven and earth,” set on a small plateau 1000 m high overlooking the Nationalpark Berchtesgaden in Berchtesgadener Land, Bayern (Bavaria) adjacent to Salzburg, Austria.  Innately beautiful, the Nationalpark contains five main mountain ranges; one third of the park is rocky and glaciated, a further third is covered in mixed woodlands of spruce, beech, fir, and other conifers; alpine pastures comprise the remainder.

12. November – 550 km, Salzburg and Niederösterreich

Today was a ca. 550 km roundtrip to Dürnstein.  Leaving the InterContinental, I took the windy Alpenstraße (B160) to the Tauern-Autobahn (A10), staying on that a brief 7 km or so until I get on the West-Autobahn (A1).   I stopped briefly along the banks of the Mondsee, one of the most beautiful lakes in the Salzkammergut.  I continued driving west to Melk, where I turned on to the Donau-Bundesstraße (B3), running along the Donau (Danube).

A view of the Danube in the Wachau valley

Dürnstein is where Richard Löwenherz (Richard the Lionhearted) was held captive after having been captured in Erdberg by the Mayor of Vienna in 1192. He was held in a huge fortress on a hill high above the village.  His loyal troubadour, Blondel de Neale, found him, so the story goes, by wandering around Europe singing Richard´s favorite ballads outside every castle, until a response came.

I stopped at the Gasthof Goldener Strauss for a glass of Grüner Veltliner (a local specialty), Frittatensuppe, Forelle (Trout), and for dessert, Powideltascherl before returning to Berchtesgaden.

13. November – 370 km, Bayern, Salzburg, Steiermark, Kärnten, Osttirol

Today was a Landstraße/Bundesstraße day. I started on the B305 leaving Berchtesgaden and, after 10 km, crossing the border into Austria, where I continued on Landstraßen and then the B159 for several kilometers.  At Hallein, I entered the Tauern-Autobahn (A10), going through the Tauernautobahn Tunnel.  After 128 km, at Lendorf I switched to the B100 to get to Lienz.  I then headed to Kitzbühel and back to Berchtesgaden taking the Felber Tauern Straße and Tunnel, and for the drive into Berchtesgaden, the Alpenstraße.

I drove through many different climates (coldest: 0,5°C – warmest 12°C in Berchtesgaden), went from light frost and a little snow on the ground to sunshine, and went up and down several times to 1200 or 1300 m.

14. November – 747 km, Germany, Austria, Hungary

For this trip, I planned a mix of Autobahnen and Bundesstraßen, allowing me to take the Tauern-Autobahn for ca. 60 km, and continue with Bundesstraßen (the B99 and the B320) for 75 km towards Liezen in Steiermark.  From Liezen I took the Pyhrn-Autobahn (A9) towards Leoben (Kärnten) for ca. 80 km.  From there I continued on the Semmering-Schnellstraße (S6) through Steiermark and Niederösterreich. The S6 meets the Süd-Autobahn (A2) at the Anschlußstelle Knoten Seebenstein where I continued on the A2 towards Wien (Vienna).  Near Wiener Neustadt I switched to the S4 (Mattersburger-Schnellstraße).  From there, I took the S31 to the Südost-Autobahn and in 6 km I was crossing the border into Hungary.

Neon-lighted highway rest area

I did get a chance to practice my Hungarian (which is somewhat limited) and enjoyed some nice palacsintá (with chestnut filling) and Hungarian coffee.  With some quick shopping (stocking up on paprikás and Marzipan), I still had a 380 km trip back to Berchtesgaden so I headed towards Wien and took the West-Autobahn (A1) for a fast drive back.

15. November – Berchtesgaden to Garching bei München – 173 km

The weather this morning was the best since I arrived. Sunny, 12°C (of course that was at 1000 m.  When I got down to 500m, it was .5 ° C).  I didn’t want to leave the InterContinental (in addition to the view, I was becoming especially attached to the electronically-controlled, gas Kamin (fireplace) in the room), but it’s a good thing I did.  Two days later, Germany was hit with heavy winter storms and, although my car has xDrive, it also is equipped with high-performance summer tires.

My final drive for this trip would take me to the offices of E.H. Harms in Garching (bei München).  A ritual I’ve followed many times before. Condition report; power of attorney form, remove front license plate (I had already removed the first aid kit and warning triangle and shipped these with other sundry items from the hotel), and hand over one key.

Rolf Raffelsieper (see resources), who worked at BMW since 1967 before retiring, was happy to pick me up at E.H. Harms and drive me to the airport in a new 745d.

Before I knew it, I was on board Lufthansa flight 410 to New York.  I logged into FlyNet, for on board Internet access.  The adventure was over, but I had a lot of e-mails and pictures to send from 11,000 m aloft.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

Since the 1960s, several thousand Americans each year have taken a trip to Munich, Germany with one goal in mind.  Unlike the other American tourists, they are not there for the beer, the Schnitzel, the museums and art galleries, and the Gemütlichkeit alone.  The real reason for the trip: to pick up a new BMW at BMW’s factory delivery center.

The author's new BMW 330xi at the InterContinental Hotel and Resort in Berchtesgaden

For years, BMW has been among a handful of European automakers that offer Americans the option of picking up their cars at the factory.  The Americans take delivery, drive on the Autobahnen, Bundesstraßen, Landstraßen, and Autostrade of Europe for several weeks, and have the cars shipped back to the United States.  The trip has become almost an annual ritual for some; indeed a third of the customers have picked up a car at the factory in previous years. I am a member of that group, having joined the club in January 1982

2363 BMWs were sold through BMW’s European Delivery program in 2005; in 2004, the number was 1999. Customers are drawn by packages that can include significant discounts (published discounts are seven percent on most models; individual dealers will frequently offer even better pricing), discounted or free airfare, meals, and the thrill of a factory tour that is the birthplace of the car being picked up.

Just as legend tells us that the Loreley bewitched the hearts of sailors on the Rhine, the Autobahn bewitches the hearts of American drivers.  The opportunity to drive a BMW in its native habitat, the German Autobahn, is a major draw.

The European Delivery program has its roots in the 1950s when members of the U.S. armed forces returning from Europe brought with them a taste for smaller, sportier European cars. Many shipped their own cars to the States with the help of E.H. Harms Auto Forwarding & Shipping.   Harms was founded by Egon H. Harms, a German soldier who had been captured by the Americans at the Battle of the Bulge.  After he was released, he started moving military vehicles back to different ports; as more U.S. bases were built in Europe, he began shipping soldiers’ cars stateside as well.

At the time, other than the occasional Volkswagen Käfer (Beetle), a non-U.S. manufactured vehicle was an unusual sight in the United States.  Their appearance was mostly due to U.S. soldiers and to Max Hoffman, the Austrian emigrant automotive entrepreneur who, starting in 1948, single-handedly created the imported car business in the United States and during his career marketed Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Jaguar, and BMW vehicles.

Most of his energy was focused on BMW. Hoffman started importing BMWs in the 1950s, and he was the exclusive importer from 1960 until March 1975, when BMW of North America was formed, reportedly buying Hoffman out for $16 million.  Hoffman remained co-chairman and a member of the design committee (he was instrumental in the creation of the BMW 507).

In the mid 1960s, with the advent of the jet age, Hoffman saw an opportunity to boost both sales and mindshare for BMW by offering prospective buyers the opportunity to take their first European vacation and drive around Europe in their own car (naturally, a BMW), which would follow them back to the U.S., giving the traveler a unique experience, saving money on the car purchase, and eliminating rental charges.

Hoffman was not alone. By the end of the decade, Mercedes, Saab, Volvo, Porsche, and Volkswagen all offered factory delivery for tourists.

European Delivery sales are arranged through BMW dealers in the United States.  Many dealerships have one salesperson as a designated specialist.  With minor exceptions, the cars do not come out of the dealer’s allocation so there is no floor cost to the dealer; essentially, it’s like selling an extra car.  Buyers should expect more paperwork (after all, buying a car usually doesn’t involve one’s passport) and buyers need to be aware that the wait time for redelivery can be six weeks to eight weeks.

Buyers receive premium auto insurance with no deductible for 14 days.  It can be extended at extra cost.  Each car is custom built, and needs to be ordered at least three months prior to the desired delivery date.  Buyers need to be aware of German (and other national) holidays when making travel plans; the delivery center is closed on German holidays and drop-off centers (over a dozen throughout Europe) are likely to be closed on local holidays.

European Delivery also has a “season” which runs from mid-March to mid-November.  Deliveries in the off season, after mid-November, are not recommended if your car comes with summer or performance tires.  German law requires the use of winter tires (tires must be designated with M+S, and all season tires do qualify).

THE PROCESS

Despite multiple prior European Deliveries, this is the first time I was to go through the entire process, starting with ordering a car from scratch.  For previous deliveries, I had selected a car from the pool of cars BMW maintains for those customers who decide to pickup their car at the factory on short notice.  Fortunately, they always seemed to have the exact car I wanted.

Placing the order with Ricki Shamen at DiFeo BMW

But this time was different: I went to meet with Ricki Shamen at DiFeo BMW on 27 August to place my order.  I had already reviewed all of the colors and options available, so placing the actual order was easy.  Ricki had obtained a production number for me rather quickly, and soon we were tracking my car through the manufacturing process, from 112 (effectively, “about to be built”) to 155 (production completed) to 170 (“at Delivery Center in Freimann for pre-delivery inspection”).  The car I ordered was a 2006 330xi, in Sparkling Graphite with a black leather interior.  Options included the Premium Package (which includes BMW Assist with Bluetooth Wireless Technology), Parking Distance Control, the Sport Package, Styling 162 wheels, iDrive and satellite navigation, Comfort Access, the Cold Weather Package, and power rear sunshades with manual side window shades – pretty much everything but Active Cruise Control, automatic transmission, and Active Steering.

We set a date for the delivery: 10. November.  That meant my car would be manufactured in mid October, ca. one month prior.  And it was, on 11. October.

As the date drew closer, I finalized an itinerary.  I would fly directly to Munich on the ninth and stay the first night in Munich.  After that, I would stay four nights at the InterContinental Resort in Berchtesgaden and make day trips from there.  I would drop off my car in Garching bei München on the 15th, and fly back to New York later that day.

The ninth of November arrived more quickly than I had anticipated.  I had set my alarm for three hours earlier than usual to get a jump on Central European Time (this works every time, ensuring I will be quite sleepy by the time we are aloft).  By coincidence, two acquaintances from the BMW Car Club of American, Rich and Jill Zimmer were to be on my flight as they were picking up an Electric Red E90 325i.

By the time I arrived at JFK, that evening, I was ready to settle in for a long, comfortable flight.  Rich and Jill were waiting for me in the Lufthansa Senator Lounge.  Due to inclement weather, our departure time was repeatedly delayed.  This gave us lots of time to enjoy sandwiches, Brezeln, and Spaten Oktoberfest Bier vom Faß.

After a comfortable flight (Lufthansa’s seats do fold into completely flat beds that are quite comfortable) and multiple delays due to weather conditions on both sides of the Atlantic, we finally arrived at Flughafen München Franz Josef Strauß at 11:45.

Rich and Jill joined me for a quick ride to the Delivery Center.  Upon arrival we headed upstairs to the café, where Thomas Roller, manager of the BMW Delivery Center, was waiting to meet with me.  Rich and Jill completed their paperwork and were brought to their new Electric Red 325i.

The BMW Welt under construction in November 2005

My next meeting was at BMW Welt  with Helmut Pöschl and his colleagues who are planning BMW Welt (more on BMW Welt in an upcoming article but I can promise it will make European Delivery even more of an experience).  Herr Roller offered to accompany me to my meetings, but allowed me to see my new car for a few seconds before we sped off in a very fast 130i.  We didn’t make it back until 17:30 and the Center was empty.  Herr Roller himself did the delivery and off I went to my “Stammhotel” on the Leopoldstraße, the Holiday Inn. This hotel is highly recommended for BMW owners doing European Delivery for one reason (besides the enormous breakfast buffet): the very safe underground parking garage.

The adventure had only begun.  See a related article, Journeys: Austria, Germany, Hungary, and Italy by Car, for details on the 2426 km drive.

HERR ROLLER’S ADVICE

Diplom-Kaufmann Thomas Roller is the manager of the BMW Delivery Center where European Delivery cars are delivered.  He has some suggestions to make the European Delivery experience more fun and less stressful for American visitors.

• Order Satellite Navigation and get the DVD for Europe.  Having navigation in the car will allow you to enjoy your trip without going astray.  Asking for directions in a language you don’t speak and reading a map for an unfamiliar city takes away one’s enjoyment of the places you came to enjoy.  Arriving hours late for a once-a-day tour can ruin a vacation.
• Learn a few phrases German and the language(s) of any countries you will be visiting.  “Danke” (thank you), “bitte” (please and you’re welcome), and “Guten Morgen” (good morning) will go a long way.
• Plan for local weather.  Don’t order a car with summer (performance) tires for a mid-December delivery.  You (and your car) won’t get very far.
• Read the materials BMW provides, including information about drop-off locations and hours. Ask questions at the delivery center before leaving.
• Don’t overplan.  Many first-time visitors to Europe try to see everything.  Pick a few destinations and get to know them well.
• Verify the location and hours for your intended drop-off location when you pick-up the car at the Delivery Center.

EUROPEAN DELIVERY RESOURCES

The BMW of North America Web site presents an overview of European Delivery, including pricing.

Driving along the Autobahn towards Innsbruck with friends right behind (visible in side-view mirror).

The European Delivery forum at Bimmerfest attracts over 10% of BMW’s European Delivery customers.  They spend time in this online forum, asking questions, making vacation plans, even learning important phrases in German.  Moderated by Bernard Wang, the European Delivery forum at Bimmerfest is a time-tested resource for novice and experienced purchasers.

Rolf Raffelsieper – BMW Pick-up Service.  Herr Raffelsieper started working at BMW in 1967.  He will pick you up at Flughafen München Franz Josef Strauß (airport) and take you directly to the BMW European Delivery Center in Freimann or to your hotel.  He will gladly pick you up from your hotel and take you to the Delivery Center and can also meet you at E.H. Harms and take you to the airport after your drop-off. He can also arrange various tours, including visits to BMW facilities of interest.  E-mail Rolf at rolf.raffelsieper@web.de

Ricki Shamen, DiFeo BMW.  It is rare to work with the same BMW Client Advisor for 16 years.  I have worked with Ricki on multiple European Deliveries (and several U.S. deliveries) over the past 16 years. She enjoys each customer’s trip as much as if she were along for the ride.   Contact her at rshamen@penskeautomotive.com.

European Delivery Calendar.  Photographs from Germany and Austria along with all U.S., German, and Austrian holidays make the European Delivery 2006 calendar a valuable reference and keepsake.

Lufthansa. Lufthansa, German’s flagship airline, serves Munich from 16 cities, offering non-stop service from New York City (JFK and Newark), Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Charlotte, and Boston (in the summertime).  Most flights are operated with Airbus A340 aircraft, configured in a two- or three-class configuration.  Newark flights offer a 44-seat all business class alternative using a Boeing 737-700 corporate jet.  Lufthansa just opened up a new first class lounge in Munich with limousine service to the plane.  For European Delivery customers, Lufthansa offers a special two-for-one package. Visit Lufthansa at www.lufthansa-usa.com/241bmw.

InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden.  The InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden is located close to the Bavarian/Austrian border some 150 km from Munich and 35 km from Salzburg, making it an excellent destination for a European Delivery trip. The mountain resort sits ca. 1,000 m above sea level on the Eckerbichl Mountain range, offering spectacular views of Berchtesgadener Land.   Visit the hotel’s Web site for more information.

Holiday Inn Munich City-North  The Holiday Inn, located in the heart of Schwabing, is a short distance from the Englischer Garten and the many shops and cafés on the Leopoldstraße.  It is also situated within minutes of the A9 and has a safe, self-park garage ideal for a brand new BMW.  Visit the hotel’s Web site for more information

EUROPEAN DELIVERY TIMELINE

1.) Ca. three months before the desired date, decide the color and options, and negotiate the price.

2.) Sign the purchase order which your dealer then submits to the European Delivery department with your desired delivery date

3.) Your car is manufactured ca. 30 days prior to delivery

4.) You pay for the car, usually 14 days before scheduled pick up day; if you are leasing, your lease starts on this day.

5.) You pick up the car in Munich.

6.) You drop the car off in Europe (within 30 days for BMWFS lease, 90 days for BMWFS finance, 6 months otherwise; insurance for 14 days is included).

7.) Car is transported to port and then put on board ship

8.) Your car reaches USA (from drop-off, this takes up 3-4 weeks for the East Coast, 5-6 weeks for the West Coast)

9.) Vehicle clears customs, is processed at the VDC and shipped to the dealer (depending on a variety of factors, including how backed up U.S. Customs is, this can take 1-2 weeks)

10.) Redelivery

FROM DROP-OFF TO REDELIVERY

Once a BMW owner drops off his car at one of the authorized drop-off points, what happens to it?  For many, the four to eight week block of time is a black box during which all the owner can do is obsess and try to track the vehicle using fairly rudimentary tools.   Once a car is dropped off, it goes by truck to Bremerhaven, Zeebrugge (if the car is dropped off in Amsterdam, Madrid or Paris) or Southampton.  If a car is dropped off in Italy, it is driven to Munich for further transport.

All cars are loaded on the same vessels in the same manner; the only difference is that privately-owned vehicles (the European Delivery cars) have priority over new vehicles if there is a space limitation.

New cars are cleared through customs electronically before the ship reaches port; privately-owned vehicles are cleared individually and manually (paper forms must be sent to customs).

The author's car being checked over at BMW's Vehicle Distribution Center (VDC) in New Jersey

The VDC, or vehicle delivery center (previously known as the VPC), is where your car will be received upon its entry into the United States.  Most cars go to the Port of New York, where they are received at the North East Auto-Marine Terminal.  Cars destined for the west coast go to the VDC at the Port of Hueneme in the Oxnard Harbor District.

When the ship arrives, cars are offloaded by stevedores to the first point of rest, also called the pier, which is part of the Northeast Auto Terminal.  European Delivery cars are segregated on the pier until they are cleared by customs inspectors, who physically inspect each car.

Once the cars are cleared and released by customs, the cars are inspected by AVI (Automotive Visual Inspections) for any damage. Northeast Auto Terminal personnel then shuttles the cars, a ca. 2.4 km trip on a private road, to the VDC.  Once the cars arrive at the VDC, barring the removal of the cosmoline (which European Delivery cars do not have), the process is the same.  Upon arrival, the cars are taken into inventory, washed, and taken into the facility.  Each vehicle is visually inspected for damage.  Damage might have occurred during use in Europe and during transport.  The VDC is especially concerned with safety-related damage or defects such as broken lights or gouges in wheels.  They also check for any factory defects such as “airbag light on.”  Any campaigns (normal updates) are performed and the car’s paper trail is reviewed.

From there, the cars go to your local BMW dealer for redelivery.

EUROPEAN ROAD WARRIOR’S ARSENAL

Keeping in touch with friends and family nowadays during a trip doesn’t mean sending a postcard, unless it’s a digital one.   Given the ubiquity of Wi-Fi, a traveler has little excuse but to e-mail a few pictures of his new BMW within hours of delivery. Having the right arsenal of tools can make this a lot easier.

For this trip, I assembled the following:

• Camera – Sony CyberShot DSC-V3 (7 megapixel)
• Mobile phone – tri-band Sony Ericsson S710a for use with the BMW’s built-in Bluetooth system (phone has with built-in 1.3 megapixel camera)
• Laptop – Lenovo (née IBM) ThinkPad T42 with built-in Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity
• Internet Connectivity – Most hotels (including the InterContinental) have wired if not wireless Internet access.  At rates of $20-30 per 24 hours, it is expensive compared to the U.S. standard of $10 per day. Internet cafés and wardriving offer an inexpensive alternative.
• Skype – Skype’s voice-over-IP (VoIP) services allow users to make free calls to each other; a call to a landline phone in the United States from Germany costs € 0.017 per minute.  Skype can be used to place phone calls from Lufthansa flights with FlyNet at the same rates.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

And, come morning, the view was incredible.  The InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden, built on the site of Field Marshal Hermann Göring’s house near Hitler’s Berghof mountain residence, is promoted as being “between heaven and earth,” set on a small plateau 1000 m high overlooking the Nationalpark Berchtesgaden in Berchtesgadener Land, Bayern (Bavaria) adjacent to Salzburg, Austria.  Innately beautiful, the Nationalpark contains five main mountain ranges; one third of the park is rocky and glaciated, a further third is covered in mixed woodlands of spruce, beech, fir, and other conifers; alpine pastures comprise the remainder.

The views continue unimpeded throughout the hotel, thanks to the generous use of floor-to-ceiling windows.  Despite the soaring ceilings, the hotel has an intimate feel to it.

Prior to its opening in early 2005, the issue of the appropriateness of building a resort in the same place where Hitler enjoyed the incredible views and conceived of his evil deeds was strongly debated in Germany and elsewhere but, to me, the hotel’s presence is a confirmation of how good triumphed over evil.

THE ROOM

The hotel’s 138 rooms range from spacious doubles to suites and all have one feature in common: eye-popping views of one’s surroundings.  The view was enough to cause me to take several hundred photos at different times of the day (and night) over the course of my stay.  Luckily, the view is easily accessible from the restaurants, the lobby, and the spa.

My room became my own private mountain retreat.  Many rooms (including mine) have fireplaces. When I returned each evening, I started the fireplace (gas-fired) and sat looking out at the view.  The room had a flat-screen TV but I didn’t really see how it could compete with what was on the other side of the window.

ROAD WARRIOR SUPPORT

Internet access was quite fast.  Desk and chair were very comfortable and lighting was excellent both at the desk for work and in bed for reading.  The only problem I had was finding sufficient electrical outlets but then I discovered they were concealed behind an elegant wooden panel built into the desk.

MEETINGS

The hotel is perfect for small- and medium-sized meetings with two boardrooms, two conference rooms, a ballroom that can accommodate 280 for a reception and 156 classroom style, and state-of-the-art equipment.  And you get the views, too.

DINING

Panoramic Restaurant 3’60 lives up to its name and serves an incredible buffet breakfast (the chef was kind enough to share his secret for making Müesli; he added apple juice in addition to the milk), as well as lunch and dinner.  The kitchen is positioned behind a wall of glass. At dinner, I couldn’t resist ordering Salzburger Nockerl, a vanilla dessert soufflé with peaks that resemble the clouds I could see from my room.

The Michelin Star Le Ceil wasn’t open when I was there but friends have reported that it’s worth the two-hour drive from Munich even if you are not staying at the hotel.

LEISURE

The Mountain Spa offers treatments that feature indigenous ingredients and has heated indoor and outdoor pools (try that in the snow!) in addition to two saunas, a steam bath meditation rooms, and treatment rooms.   The fitness center never closes.  There is much to do including horseback riding, biking, tennis, paragliding, water aerobics, and boating on the Königssee.  There are lots of activities for children including a cooking class.

BOTTOM LINE

The InterContinental Berchtesgaden Hotel and Resort is set in one of the most beautiful parts of Europe, the rooms were so comfortable I considered moving in, dining (be it breakfast or dinner) is memorable, and the staff does its utmost to make one feel relaxed and welcome.  This is one of those rare hotels where I would be happy to go out of my way just to visit it again.

InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden
Hintereck 1
83471 Berchtesgaden  Germany
+49 (8652) 97550
www.ichotelsgroup.com

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.

The author's brand new BMW 330xi was followed by a red BMW 3er across the Brenerpaß.

as far as Sferzing, and looping back to Berchtesgaden), I passed by the front desk just in time to hear another guest complaining about problems with Net connectivity.  He was quite upset (apparently, his room had no connectivity) and was simultaneously speaking with one of the hotel managers and someone on a customer service line.  His complaint: had he known he would not have Internet access, he would have stayed elsewhere.  Apparently, I was lucky to be in the Confetti Suite.

As Net access in hotels becomes as ubiquitous as television, hotels (such as the one I was staying in) catering to business travellers need to ensure a more seamless experience.  Almost all hotels work with third-party providers; unfortunately, when that partner becomes unreliable, the hotel guest sees only the hotel brand and such unreliability tarnishes that brand.  Unhappy guests seldom return, regardless of who was at fault.

Friday, November 11, 2005, Berchtesgaden, Germany

View at 1000 m - from the InterContinental Hotel and Resort, Berchtesgaden

630 kilometers later and at an altitude of 950 m, I found myself comfortably ensconced in a suite at the recently-opened InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden.  No Confetti Suite here; I was online within minutes.  The biggest problem I had was finding an electrical outlet for the computer (the outlets were concealed behind a wood panel).  Berchtesgaden was to be my base for the remainder of my trip.

During the balance of my stay, I visited Dürnstein (the town where Richard the Lionhearted was held captive), Lienz, Kitzbühel, and Sopron (Hungary) – in all, driving 2426 km.

Tuesday, November 15, 2005, Munich, Germany
I drove ca. 175 km to the town of Garching, outside of Munich, to turn the car over to the shipping agent, E.H. Harms.  From Garching, it was a 15-minute ride to Munich’s ultra-modern Franz Josef Strauss Airport.  As mentioned last week, I had been looking forward to trying Lufthansa’s FlyNet onboard Internet service, but on the trip over, the service was unfortunately kaput.  I was pressing my thumbs together (German/Austrian equivalent of “fingers crossed”) for good luck for the flight home.

Tuesday, November 15, 2005, 11,000 m over Europe
As soon as we reached cruising altitude, my computer detected Wi-Fi and I logged into FlyNet.  Seat power outlets are conveniently located and I had a choice of U.S. or the European Schuko connection systems.  I started off with simple chores, such as checking the news (I decided NOT to grab a handful of newspapers as I boarded, opting – hoping – to see the more current online versions).

With Lotus Notes replicating my mail and other databases in the background, I started receiving Sametime instant messages from colleagues.  Briefly put, my initial experience (discounting last week’s flight) with FlyNet was very positive.  Granted, it was relatively slow (I did several speed tests and it was marginally faster than GPRS) but we WERE, after all, at 11,000 m cruising along at 860 km/h.

After reading some e-mail, I called home using Skype (quality was decent), checked my voicemail, upgraded iTunes, did some online banking – in short, nothing extraordinary, absent the venue.

The author, connected to the Net at 30,000 feet via Connexion by Boeing

My neighbor in seat 3J, Frau Frowein, lives in Munich and was visiting New York for the first time.  She had some questions for me about things to do, so I suggested we look online at some information about events for the upcoming week in New York – another good use for FlyNet.  I also recommended a concert at Carnegie Hall, so we looked at the program and she and I booked a ticket for her for a concert with Hilary Hahn.  We also e-mailed her daughter (Frau Frowein had never used e-mail before).

About 3 hours into the flight, I briefly lost the connection but the service was flawless from that point forward.

Last Tuesday’s flight took place entirely during business hours in the United States.  We departed at 15:15 local time, which is 09:15 in New York.  We landed at 18:25 New York time.  This represents an entire day – and given the pace at which the knowledge economy moves – missing one day is more than many can afford.

–Jonathan B. Spira is the Editor of Executive Road Warrior and Chief Analyst at Basex, a knowledge economy research firm.