Restaurant Review: Intersect by Lexus, New York City, A Shrine to Automotive Gastronomy

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The timing of each of the 12 dishes from the prix fixe menu was perfect. We never found one dish arriving before we had finished the prior dish, nor did we find ourselves wondering when the next dish might arrive.

The meal started with a shank dumplingaccompanied by a quail egg in smoked broth that was served in a glass teapot, its opening filled with a small forest of herbs and mushrooms.  Have you tried salmon ice cream on a stick? Neither had we, but it was surprisingly delicious as a second course.  The dishes kept coming: Vuelve à la Vida Venezolano, chilled seafood with a sweet potato puree; Gunkan, palometa and beet; Hamachi Nigiri, yellowtail tuna with beet and ginger; Nikkuman, pepitoria and cilantro; Gnocchi with pork belly and romance; Piquillo Pepper with cucumber and mayonnaise; a scallop with potato Noisette and bacon foam; and an oxtail sandwich with cilantro and garlic aioli.

Naturally, 040 finishes not with one but two satisfying ways to end a meal: raspberry cheesecake with Campari gel, and chocolate mocha with banana gel and coffee and whiskey ice cream.

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While you may be reading this review after Chef Barroso has concluded his tenure at Intersect, the overall premise will still be the same.  The next chef will be Chef Tomás Kalika, known for his interpretation of dishes of the Jewish diaspora at his restaurant, Mishiguene, in Buenos Aires, and the upstairs dining room at Intersect will reopen on September 7.

The 040 menu is something I would unquestionably go out of my way to return for, even though I know the actual dishes will be different and I am truly looking forward to my next visit in early September to see what Chef Kalika has in store.


Intersect by Lexus
412 W 14th Street
New York, N.Y. 10014

(Photos: Accura Media Group)


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