Restaurant Review: La Goulue, New York City

By Jonathan Spira on 26 March 2019
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When the classic French restaurant La Goulue closed just short of a decade ago, forced out by its landlord, Jean Denoyer, who had created the Upper East Side eatery, was forced to put the brasserie into cold storage, only to emerge ten years later.

Indeed, I recalled reading in the papers back then of various rumors it would close and close it finally did.

La Goulue, which means “the glutton,” was also the stage name of Louise Weber (1866-1929), a French can-can dancer who was one of the stars of the Moulin Rouge.

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The restaurant originally opened in 1972 and moved once during its first run. It was known for its cuisine as for the bold-faced names that frequented it, including the late Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Catherine Deneuve, Giorgio Armani, Oscar de la Renta, Bruce Springsteen, and Sigourney Weaver.

Its renaissance is taking place blocks away from its previous location, and my dining companion and I arrived there on a cold winter night where the only thing on my mind was what I imagined to be a wondrous soupe à l’oignon gratinée. Made with two cheeses, the French onion soup was extremely satisfying and was followed by the restaurant’s signature dish, Tartare de thon “La Goulue,” or tuna tartare. Prepared with wasabi miso seasoning, it was understandable why this is one of the house favorites.

Click here to continue to Page 2Coq-au-Vin and Braised Short Ribs

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