Restaurant Review: Bobby Van’s Steakhouse, New York

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In a good steakhouse, the experience depends largely on having a good waiter and Dominik was indeed an excellent waiter. A menu such as Bobby Van’s might be intimidating but he put us at ease and, in between courses, regaled us with stories about his homeland, Croatia, while making sure we were enjoying every bite. He didn’t try to talk us into more food than we wanted but did encourage our gourmandizing at the end.

We started off with the lobster salad – a marvelous looking deconstructed red creature on a plate – so perfectly cooked that butter was not even required (although I used a dab nonetheless). Our salad was a hearty mixture of lettuce and tomatoes with a red wine vinaigrette topped with gorgonzola cheese.

The service was efficient and not rushed. A short interval after our plates had been cleared, the main courses – my bone-in rib eye, medium rare but charred on the outside, and my companion’s chicken Marsala, arrived, accompanied by creamed spinach (who wouldn’t order creamed spinach in a steakhouse?). The steak was a wonderful example of its genre, cooked to perfection, rich and delicious, and so ridiculously large that I enjoyed sliced cold rib eye for lunch the following day.

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The chicken Marsala was deemed by my companion as being simply delicious, the flavor of the dark, sweet dessert wine bursting forth.

As he cleared the table, mindful that the rib eye was to be packed carefully for a short journey, our waiter began to speak of the virtues of the establishment’s bread pudding. Unable to decide between that and cheesecake, we had both (the cheesecake was quite good, the bread pudding, divine). Who cares, we thought. You only live once.

THE DETAILS

Bobby Van’s Steakhouse
The Helmsley Building
230 Park Avenue
New York, N.Y. 10169

(Photos: Accura Media Group)

 

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