Restaurant Review: Burnside Biscuit, Astoria Queens, for a Southern Accent
Many associate the Astoria section of Queens in New York with Greek food and restaurants but the truth is that the neighborhood is brimming with dining establishments offering such diverse fare as Czech cuisine, seafood, and sushi.
Hidden among the cafes, diners, burger joints, and Greek restaurants are several southern restaurants including Burnside Biscuit, which, in Yankee territory, is named after Civil War General Ambrose Burnside (he served on the Union side) whose name was borrowed (in reverse) for his distinctive style of facial hair.
The first time we tried to go to Burnside Biscuit, it had closed early for a private event. The second time we tried, the restaurant had a limited menu that evening. However, we persisted and finally made it, only to stand for about five minutes at the bar waiting for someone to acknowledge and seat us. Once the bartender looked up and ascertained that we weren’t waiting for the bus, we found ourselves quickly ensconced at a pleasant window table.
Burnside Biscuit features a variety of spaces including the bar and lounge area, an open kitchen with a wood-burning stove, and the main dining room. An impressive vitrine running along the top of the wall outside the kitchen is filled with vintage glassware. In addition, a decent vibe in the dining room is provided by a DJ booth.
In introducing herself, our waitress mentioned that she had been at the restaurant for only three weeks, which explained the uneven pace of service throughout our visit.
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