King Noodle, Whitestone, N.Y. – Restaurant Review
It was almost 20 years ago that Ruth Reichl, then the food critic at the New York Times, introduced Shanghai soup dumplings, also known as xiao lung bao, to the newspaper’s readership – including my mother – explaining that the chef at Joe’s Shanghai in Manhattan had “perfected the art of wrapping hot liquid in pastry.”
My parents became soupy dumpling fans and frequented Joe’s, as did I and many of my friends.
Fast forward to 2015 and the grand opening of King Noodle. On my first visit there, the restaurant was quiet but it was admittedly mid-afternoon. The staff was friendly although far from fluent in English.
My dining companion and I sat down and looked at the menu. “Do you have soupy dumplings?” I asked.
The server set an open bamboo tray onto the table. We peered inside to see six perfectly formed dumplings with steam rising from within.
Each dumpling was a masterful creation. The meat filling, which was swimming in hot broth, was rich and flavorful. However, the uninitiated in the art of consuming soupy dumplings should not rush.