Restaurant Goldener Hirsch, Salzburg, Austria – Review

By Jonathan Spira on 27 May 2013
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DSC_2696One of my earliest memories from childhood is driving to Salzburg for the day with my parents and younger brother and eating at the Restaurant Goldener Hirsch.  My father would promise us our favorite dessert, Salzburger Nockerl, provided we were on our best behavior of course, and my brother and I were not going to do anything to risk this opportunity.

I’ve gone back to the Goldener Hirsch multiple times over the years (it was easier when I was living in Munich and it was only an hour and 45 minute’s drive and didn’t require first having to fly across the Atlantic Ocean) and the food has remained excellent.  But, of course, each time I return to the restaurant, I run the risk of seeing my memory shattered.



On a drive from Steyr, in Oberösterreich (Upper Austria) back to Berchtesgaden in Germany with European Editor Christian Stampfer, I suggested we have a typical Austrian meal at the Goldener Hirsch, especially because I knew that Christian had never had Salzburger Nockerl before.  (Of course, to keep with tradition, he had to be well-behaved during the journey but that didn’t appear to be a problem.)

Upon arrival, we received a very warm welcome from the staff, and were quickly seated and studying the wine menu.  Christian was driving so I had a glass of the house Grüner Veltliner and we shared a bottle of Römerquelle mineral water.

Every time I have eaten at the Goldener Hirsch, I have started with Frittatensuppe, and this time was no exception.  Frittatensuppe is a beef broth with strips of Palatschinken, an Austrian crêpe.  It continues to be almost as good as my grandmother’s.

Wiener Zwiebelrostbraten and Wiener Schnitzel

Wiener Zwiebelrostbraten and Wiener Schnitzel

We ordered two entrées for us to share: Wiener Schnitzel and Wiener Zwiebelrostbraten.  The former is veal cutlet Viennese style, very thin, lightly hammered, and deep fried until golden brown (my grandmother had me hammering cutlets by the age of five, I should add).  By first dusting with flour and then applying egg batter and bread crumbs, the result is a crisp, light schnitzel with a crust that rises like a soufflé.  The secret ingredient is air, which gets trapped in the crust when you move and shake the pan about, swirling the schnitzel within.  The crust puffs up and doesn’t stick to the veal, although one stab by a fork deflates it.

Wiener Zwiebelrostbraten is a large yet thin, pan-fried steak buried beneath thin and crispy golden fried onions.   The waiter knew we were sharing the two dishes and everything was plated tableside, with equal portions set out for both of us.  The entrées were accompanied by two kinds of potatoes (roasted and parsley), and a salad of radish, tomato, and lettuce, which added a flourish to the dinner.

Click here to continue to Page 2Salzburger Nockerl for Dessert and a Virtual Tour

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