DESSERT AND DESSERT WINES

While I was contemplating how I was going to fit in dessert we were served a post-dinner palate cleansing amuse bouche.  The ginger beer float was something I can honestly say I’ve never had anywhere else.  The mixture of ginger beer, crème fraiche and volcanic salt ice cream was truly unique and, while initially the flavors seemed a bit odd, they worked in an unexpectedly wonderful way.  It was the perfect transition to my favorite course of the meal: dessert.

And dessert didn’t disappoint.  We were offered an additional dessert to try – the vanilla lime posset – something I probably would have normally passed over on the menu in lieu of chocolate.  The mixture of vanilla, lime, kiwi, mint and champagne granite was once again a wonderful mixture of ingredients that worked together in a refreshing, unique way.

I opted for chocolate and was absolutely not disappointed in my choice of the mint chocolate chip ice cream with salted caramel swirled brownie with anise meringue.  The ice cream wasn’t overly sweet or minty and the brownie was nothing short of amazing – it was hands down one of the most memorable desserts I’ve had in a long time.   My dining companion opted for the chocolate fondant cake that, while good, couldn’t surpass the other two desserts.  I still dream of that brownie.

The wine list is extensive and the knowledgeable sommelier assisted us in selecting a 2008 Johann Donabaum Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau region of Lower Austria (Niederösterreich) to accompany our meal.  It was everything one expects from a Grüner Veltliner: nice spice, good acidity, and apple and citrus notes. It not only paired well with the variety of dishes we had, but it also stood well on its own.  The sommelier brought us two dessert wines to accompany our desserts: a 1995 Niepoort Colheita Port, which was sweet and nutty, an excellent example of a Colheita (which typically spends 20 or more years in wooden barrels before being bottled and sold, unlike a vintage port, which matures in the bottle), and a 2004 Philippe Delesvaux Clos de la Guiberderie Coteaux du Lavon, which had apple and marzipan notes and a sweet honeyed finish. .

Overall the experience at Twenty Five Lusk surpassed my expectations.  Maybe it’s due to my recent move from Los Angeles, but from the sleek design and décor I expected to find the usual modern – but not necessarily memorable – new American cuisine. Chef Matthew Dolan takes some risks with flavors, which I not only applaud but also appreciate.  More importantly, they work.

Our waiter made a comment to my dining companion (who lives in New York City) that New York is more of a foodie powerhouse than SF, but I would beg to differ. SF can absolutely hold its own with NYC and Twenty Five Lusk is just one example.  At ten months, Twenty Five Lusk is still a young restaurant and I look forward to watching how it matures.

Twenty Five Lusk
25 Lusk Street
San Francisco, California 94107
+1 415 495-5875
www.25lusk.com

TWENTY FIVE LUSK – THE RESTAURANT

TWENTY FIVE LUSK – THE MEAL

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